Feasting on Miles for the Holidays
by Herbie Saint

My
wife, Catharine and I were planning a trip to St. Louis to join her family at her
sister's new home for Thanksgiving. And I still had a couple of weeks of vacation
time to use at work so I devised a brilliant plan... buy Catharine an airline ticket
and I'll ride the motorcycle (a.k.a. The Freshmaker). Then, after the Thanksgiving
holidays, I could ride on to California, see some friends and ride a 50cc back across
the country (which requires riders to ride between any two US coastal cities, cross
country, within 50 hours).
I left Raleigh NC at 7am
on Tuesday, November 24, 1998 to spend the day working in Greensboro NC (about 2
hours away). Catharine flew to St. Louis later that morning. St. Louis is roughly
750 miles from Greensboro which I should easily be able to make within a day. My
plan was to sleep over in Greensboro after work and leave during the early hours
of the next morning (around 3am). However, I finished my project at 4:00pm that afternoon
and the weather was excellent. Sunny and in the 60's, so I decided to ride for a
while and get a room somewhere on the road.
I took I-40 up to US 52 North
in Winston-Salem, up to I-77 to Charleston WV and then I-64 West to Lexington KY.
It was getting dark about the time I reached West Virginia (about 6:00pm) and the
temperature began to drop rapidly in the mountains. I pulled over and put on my Widder
vest and gloves and settled into a comfortable ride. My guess is that the temperature
was in the mid 30's that night through the mountains.
I arrived in Lexington
KY around 11:00pm that evening and took a room at the Red Roof Inn. It was cold and
I was beginning to get a little sleepy. No one was expecting me in St. Louis until
Wednesday afternoon anyway, so I might as well take my time. After checking in, I
tuned into the Weather Channel to see what would be waiting ahead for me. The weather
report predicted rain between Lexington and St. Louis but nice temperatures. I set
the Screamin' Beacon for 6:00am and went to sleep.
I was loaded and leaving
Lexington by 7:00am. At Evansville IN, it began to rain lightly and the Thanksgiving
traffic was beginning to grow a little thick. I arrived in St. Louis around noon
to my anxiously awaiting wife at her sister's (Elizabeth) home. Just a few moments
later, Jesus (her husband) returned from the airport with their parents and grandmother.
And for the next few days, we had a wonderful and festive Thanksgiving which included
many of their old friends and several of Jesus' family members.
On Saturday,
November 28, Catharine and her family were leaving for the airport to return home
shortly after 9:00am so I loaded the motorcycle and bid farewell to all. I took I-44
west from St. Louis through Springfield MO, Oklahoma City and finally into Amarillo
TX, arriving around 9:00pm. The temperatures were pleasant but the entire trip had
been very windy and gusty all day and I was tired. My plan at this point was to travel
I-40 west over to Barstow CA and then up CA58 & CA99 up to the San Francisco
area to see my buddies at CBT Imports (Bernd & Jeff) and to have my bike serviced
at California BMW before returning. I checked into Motel 6 just off the interstate
and discovered they didn't have the Weather Channel. So I tried to get as much info
as I could from their local weather forecasts (i.e. not much). What I did find out
though, was that snow was coming down in the higher elevations between Albuquerque
NM and Flagstaff AZ, and that severe rain storms were on the way into Amarillo. Time
for a change of route.
I determined that the best way out of Amarillo was
to go south on I-27 into Lubbock and turn west again on US82, which would eventually
hook up with US70 near Alamogordo NM, and then onto I-10 at Las Cruces NM.
I
woke up at 5:30am on Sunday and was on the road within the hour. I turned west on
US82 in Lubbock TX, into rain. Light at first, but heavier as the miles grew. The
winds also picked up to over 30mph (with higher gusts), and driving rain. I spent
much of this leg leaning at a 10-15 degree angle on my right side. Several hours
later, I arrived in Artesia NM...cold, wet and tired. As I was coming into town,
I pressed the rear brake to slow down for an upcoming train track crossing and ...
nothing. They were so wet, I had to pump them a couple of times to engage. I stopped
for fuel and hot coffee and struck up a conversation with a driver who told me I'd
never make it over the Snow Canyon pass. Well, I guess not with a name like *Snow
Canyon.* He told me he had just come from there and the rain that had just blown
through, had dumped fresh snow up there. Lucky me, I get to change my route again.
He suggested I take US285 south back into Texas, and then onto I-20 at Pecos, over
to I-10 and back up through El Paso. He hadn't heard of any snow down south. So off
I went. I guessed this detour would cost me at least another 200 miles, by conservative
estimates.
On US285, the wind gusts became increasingly worse, sometimes blowing
me into the next lane, but there was absolutely nowhere to stop. This part of the
country is desolate. Almost 2.5 hours later, I came into Pecos TX, fueled up and
turned west onto I-20. The winds had returned to steady. My gas mileage had been
lousy on that leg.
I arrived in El Paso around 5:30pm as the sun was going
down, and so were the temperatures once again. I was exhausted but determined not
to spend the night in Texas since that's where my day had begun. I opened my Atlas
at the El Paso fuel stop and noticed that Las Cruces NM was roughly only 40 miles
away. So I decided to ride there, treat myself to a nice dinner and turn in early.
At that point, I had expected to be in California, but the weather had thrown me
off an entire day... and I was still at least a full day (@1100+ miles) away from
San Francisco (or two days if the bad weather persisted).
My schedule had
been for me to be in San Francisco by Monday (mid-day) to meet up with Bernd and
Jeff, spend Tuesday at their shop installing PIAA lights on the GS, have the bike
serviced on Wednesday and ride to Los Angeles on Thursday. I had arranged for Terry
Smith (West/Narley) to witness my 50cc departure early Friday am. That plan would
change soon.
As I came into Las Cruses NM, I caught a second wind and decided
to push on another 75 miles into Deming NM before retiring. I stopped at the Motel
6 in Deming and asked first if they had the Weather Channel. She replied "no"
and asked how many were in my party. I respectfully told her that I wouldn't be spending
another night in a motel without the Weather Channel and left. I'll bet she doesn't
hear that everyday. Back on I-10 for a couple of exits, I found a Super 8 motel and
went there to ask the same question. They did have the channel, so I checked in and
tuned in once again. I had not seen a decent weather report since leaving St. Louis
and the news was not good.
The California coast was being pounded by a huge
storm system from Santa Barbara CA and on up to Seattle WA. Lots of rain, wind and
snow in most of the higher elevations. At this point, I decided to alter my plan
to ride into San Diego where I would begin my 50cc ride back to Jacksonville FL.
Since I was already a day behind, and the weather would be horrible in California
for several days, my original schedule was blown, and being stranded in California
was not an option. I needed to be back in North Carolina within the week.
I
woke up the next morning and turned the Weather Channel on once again to discover
that the storm system in California had moved down and into San Diego. And also that
within the next day or so, would be moving across the country. The last thing I wanted
to do at that point was to ride through driving rain again, into San Diego where
I would turn around and ride with the rain and wind all the way back across the country
at a 50cc pace. So once again, I changed my plan.
The 50cc was off. But since
the weather looked good all the way east, I decided a suitable replacement would
be a Bunburner Gold (requires a rider to ride a minimum of 1500 miles in less than
24 hours). So I took the opportunity to rest the day in Deming NM, read a little
and have my oil changed at Deming Cycle Center. Don (the owner) was a great guy and
worked me right in (I believe they are a Honda, Yamaha, BMW dealership). I had a
casual dinner, planned my Bunburner Gold route, scouted the local police station,
a pay-at-the-pump gas station and prepared my paperwork. My atlas measured Atlanta
GA to be around 1550 miles away, and since Atlanta is on the way home, it was the
perfect choice. I called Terry Smith and the guys at CBT Imports to advise them of
my changed schedule. Around 8:00pm, I set the Screamin' Beacon for 2:30am and went
to sleep. Of course, I didn't sleep very well.
On Tuesday morning, December
1st at 2:30am, I threw the Screamin' Beacon across the room, only to realize that
I still had to get out of bed to retrieve it and turn it off. I dressed and went
outside to check the weather. The winds were relatively calm (only 5-10 mph) and
the temperature was in the high 30's. The good news here is that it is normally around
20 degrees in Deming this time of year (according to the Weather Channel).
I
loaded the GS and was at the Deming Police Station by 3:29 am (MT), to obtain the
required starting signature from one of the town's finest and was on my way to the
pay-at-the-pump gas station just a few blocks away. I gave the GS one last inspection
(motorcycle, packing and myself). Once I was ready, I pumped the fuel, took my prize
receipt with my official starting time of 3:37am and jumped onto I-10. Official starting
mileage was 19,249.
The night air was crispy and clear. The stars glistened
as the full moon lit up the road in front of me. It was dreamlike. I cranked up the
Widder electrics to the comfort zone and took my place on the highway behind a
couple
of cars travelling at my desired speed for night riding (hoping to use them as a
deer/animal buffer, if necessary). It was still dark as I rode through El Paso and
I think I saw the lights from a nearby Mexican city to my right.
I watched
the sun rise over the Devil Ridge Eagle Mountains in Texas before stopping for fuel
in Van Horn TX at 7:50am (CT). I fueled up, ate a Powerbar and took off again on
I-10. About 60 miles later, I switched onto I-20 east. I had run the first leg at
71.4 mph for a distance of 232 miles in the dark. Now that the sun was up, I should
make better time.
My next stop was in Big Spring TX. I think I had counted
three State Troopers in that leg. And that was just a sign of things to come. I'm
certain that every State Trooper in the state of Texas had shown up for work that
day. I would count at least a dozen while riding through Texas. At Big Spring, I
had ridden a total of 466 miles, averaging 75.5 mph on that leg. I have auxiliary
fuel on my R1100GS which gives me a total range of around 350 miles. But I had decided
to buy fuel every 250 miles since I wasn't too familiar with this part of the country
(every 175-200 miles after dark).
Just before Ft. Worth TX, I filled up and
ate another Powerbar (in Weatherford TX). It was 2:24pm (CT) and I was hoping to
scoot through Ft. Worth and Dallas. Luckily, traffic was light for those areas and
there were no real delays. At Weatherford, I had ridden a total of 712 miles which
would make Dallas roughly the halfway point of my quest.
It was on this leg
that I enjoyed my last few hours of daylight. The weather still looked great (sunny
and 70). But in the winter, you trade off sunlight for high temperatures (in the
summer). I haven't decided which is worse. I think I'd rather have the daylight.
By
the time I'd reached Greenwood LA (near Shreveport) at 6:04pm, it had turned dark.
There was heavy road construction in this area and quite a bit of traffic. I enjoyed
yet another Powerbar (yum) and refueled. The pay-at-the-pump printer didn't work
so I had to go inside to retrieve my receipt. I don't like to be rude, but when the
cashier continued to chat with her co-worker, I interrupted her and firmly stated
that I needed a
receipt for my gas. And after 13.5 hours of riding a motorcycle
across Texas, I'm sure I was beginning to look a little rough. She readily obliged
and I was on my way. Patience is not a virtue on a Bun Burner Gold. I was only 42
miles from the 1000 mile point and still feeling good. But it was dark now and I
still had over 500 miles to go.
My next stop for fuel was in Vicksburg MS.
My mph average had dropped to a measley 66.7 and fatigue was beginning to set in.
At this point, I decided to walk around a few minutes and loosen up some. This helped
a great deal, but once I was back on the road, I soon felt very tired again. I decided
to stop more often if necessary to help stay awake. On this leg, I began to sing
some fairly stupid songs out loud to stay alert (100 Bottles of Beer on the Wall,
etc.).
I made it as far as Meridian MS (137 miles) before stopping again.
I was painfully tired at this point so I went into the store for coffee. I went back
outside and walked around for about 10 minutes. The caffeine jolt worked wonders
and I was good for the next three hours. As I was coming into Birmingham AL, I spotted
a road sign which read, "Atlanta, 145 miles." And at the same time, I was
riding into a blanket of fog which had set in over the city. Panic began to take
hold and I was suddenly wide awake again. It was 2:00am (CT) and I needed to be in
Atlanta and have my official receipt by 5:32am (ET, 2 hours and 35 minutes). I fueled
up in Leeds AL (just past Birmingham) and took off for Atlanta. Not far out of Birmingham,
the fog let up.
For the record, I reached the 1500 mile mark at highway marker
175 on I-20 in the Middle of Nowhere, AL. But because the Iron Butt Association calculates
mileage with a computer program, I couldn't rely 100% on my odometer. And an odometer
that's off by only 5% can cost you as much as 75 miles on a Bun Burner Gold.
At
this point, I wasn't tired anymore. I was pushing it to reach Atlanta in time. My
mph average was back up to 71.4 for this leg...in the dark, riding through the Talladega
National Forest, hoping my cheap deer whistles were actually doing anything.
I
crossed the state line into Georgia with about 50 miles to go. As I approached the
outer loop in Atlanta, I began to look for any reasonable exit to claim my prize
receipt. I had plenty of miles, it was 4:45am (ET) and I was completely exhausted.
I took exit 14 and claimed my official reciept in Austell GA (an Atlanta suburb).
Official
Ending Time: 4:47am (ET)
Official Mileage: 1595 miles
Official Ride Time:
23 hours, 12 minutes
Average MPH: 68.75mph (including fuel stops)
I
had noticed a sign for a Red Roof Inn off exit 13, so I (painfully) returned to I-20
for one more
exit. My witness verification would have to wait until after my nap. I found the
motel and rode over to the office, where two Atlanta police cars had pulled up. As
I walked inside, they were questioning a person whose car had apparently been stolen.
I didn't care. I checked in anyway (5:00am ET). I figured that it would be daylight
soon and the police were already there, so it would probably be a safe place to park
the bike. I thought about asking them to sign my witness form but they were busy
and I didn't feel that would be appropriate. And I certainly wasn't going to wait
for them to finish with their investigation. So I went to my room and left a voicemail
message for Catharine, letting her know where I was and that I was still alive. Then
I immediately fell into a deep sleep.
I woke up a few hours later and found
the Fulton Co. Fire Station #11, where I obtained my final verification. Fait Accompli.
I
returned to the motel to load the bike and check out. The desk clerk reminded me
that I had checked in only a few hours before and that I could keep the room until
the following morning. I told her "thank you, but all I wanted was a nap and
shower."
I then rode back to Raleigh NC (about 400 miles) at the most
casual pace of my entire trip, with perfect weather (sunny and mid-70's). And I stopped
for a Big Mac and Fries to get the taste of Powerbar out of my mouth.
It's just smart riding to be willing
to change plans in order to avoid disaster. I had hit the proverbial wall (due to
weather) by New Mexico and knew that a 50cc would not have been safe to attempt (riding
mostly at night) with the incoming storms. And with my schedule, I couldn't wait
for the storm to pass. I'll get the 50cc next time.
It's like the old saying,
"When life hands you lemons, make lemonade," or in my case...GOLD.
Herbie
Saint