6. Colorado

Day 25: Tuesday, August 5

Friedley's Mountain View RV Park may not have scenic vistas to offer, or even a modern-looking bathhouse -- but once inside the bathhouse, it's bliss! Great shower, ample water, controls that control, a shower head that puts out much more than a trickle. I needed a good morning shower since it didn't cool off much during the night.

Was on the road by 10:00 AM, bought gasoline in Monticello at $1.749/gal regular (averaged 15.6 mpg on yesterday's tank) and headed for Colorado in search of scenic beauty.

It really isn't fair to Colorado to search it for scenic beauty after one has just gorged on Utah. The better approach is to visit Colorado first, then go to Utah -- as I had done last year. But this time around I wanted to revisit certain scenic roads I had liked on previous trips, but traveling in the opposite direction.

Took US 666 from Monticello, UT to the Lewis, CO area and then switched to the pretty SR 184 to Mancos. Picked up US 160 to go to Durango -- a very busy college and tourist town. Found an Albertson's and restocked the van before heading north on US 550.

Had taken US 550 southbound several times, check my 2002-1 and 1999-3 journals for photos and descriptions. But one does get a different perspective when traveling in the opposite direction.

The drive through the San Juan National Forest is outstanding. The road climbs and dips, climbs and dips. First came the Coal Bank pass (10,600') and right beyond the pass is a beautiful vista of Twilight Peak.

The drive to Silverton is dramatic -- much more so than when going north to south. Towards the end is a magnificent view of Silverton, way down below. Since the sightseeing train was steaming at the Silverton station it sure looked like a model railroad layout. Unfortunately the road is too narrow for stopping and taking pictures -- you'll just have to experience it yourself, and be sure to pick a bright sunny day.

The next stretch of US 550, from Silverton to Ouray, is not as scenic going south to north as it is the other direction.

Scenic beauty comes to an end, more or less, after Ouray. I continued on US 550 to Montrose, and then turned east on US 50.

The drive to Gunnison is mostly scenic. Last year it had been a cloudy day and quite unattractive.

Decided to stay in Gunnison -- had stayed at the local KOA last year, and had been impressed by the superclean bathhouse. Might as well try them again. $19.04 for a tent site without any hook-ups.

Drove 280 miles and was on the road for 7 hours.

Day 26: Wednesday, August 6

Slept well and late in the cool air at 7,500'. 49F was the night's low, about 10 degrees higher inside the van. Finally persuaded myself at 8:30 AM that I really ought to get up -- was on the road by 10:00.

Continued on US 50 and enjoyed its best part, the 7 mile climb up to Monarch Pass (11.312'). A beautiful view of the eastern Rockies:

Left US 50 at Poncha Springs and headed north on US 285 -- some parts of which were quite scenic, but many other miles were boring. Traffic got quite heavy as I approached Denver and I-70. Did not at all like the way locals drove at high speeds on US 285 and I-70. Jumped off at the intersection of I-70 west and US 6 to make my way to Black Hawk and Central City. Those two towns are gambling casinos and tourist traps (see my 2002-1 journal) and I was happy to soon find myself on the scenic Peak-to-Peak road (SR 119, 72, and 7) which runs from Central City to Estes Park.

I had enjoyed this scenic byway last year, going south. Had thought that taking it south to north might be more scenic, but the weather did not cooperate. Heavy clouds obscured most of the vistas, except that the descend into Estes Park was impressively scenic.

Got a site at the Estes KOA -- $32.29 for a mini-site with water and electricity. The price one pays for a "destination" campground, I guess, and it certainly is the most I've ever paid for a site. BTW, the mini-site faces a busy highway. In terms of getting the most value for a dollar spent, my experience on this and previous visits to Colorado make me think that this state ranks way down on the list, together with Maine and California.

Was on the road for 6 3/4 hours and drove 280 miles. Bought gasoline in Gunnison for $1.699/gal and averaged 15.4 mpg on the previous tank.

Day 27: Thursday, August 7

My main reason for staying at KOA campgrounds and paying the premium is -- I thought -- assured bathhouse quality and cleanliness. The KOA at Estes Park disabused me of that notion. Not only was it the most expensive campground I've ever stayed at, not only was my site so close to the busy road that sleep was pretty much impossible, but the bathhouse was a total disappointment. Smelly, dirty, overcrowded, and water pressure so low that the showers barely trickled. Further evidence to support my growing suspicion that Colorado is one huge tourist trap.

Was on the road by 10:00 AM (temperature already 85F) and followed the beautiful Big Thompson River east out of the mountains. A beautiful drive, I highly recommend it. Somewhat disconcerting are the signs that tell you to seek higher grounds in case of flash floods. How do you do that when the canyon walls are sheer vertical planes?

Connected with I-25 and headed south. Traffic around Denver is heavy, and all of I-25 is under construction, with sudden lane changes, drivers that won't let you get into the lane you need to suddenly be in, etc. If possible, avoid the area.

Made my way to Colorado Springs. This is an attractive city with a well laid out downtown business district. Found the local kinko's and they gave me a phone line (free of charge) which I used for an hour to upload, handle e-mail, and do some banking. Also found a Jiffy Lube for the 165,000 mile service. Also found a car wash where they really worked hard to get all the bugs off the Westy.

Then found my way to the home of Marge and Mark, members of the Yahoo GTRV list. They had invited me to visit with them and to give them a tour of my Westy. I was most happy to oblige. They prepared an outstanding grilled salmon dinner and I thoroughly enjoyed spending the evening with them. Thanks, Marge and Mark.

Their garage entrance faces a back alley -- a perfect place for setting up the Westy for the night. Was asleep by 10 PM, and hit the road by 8:00 AM.

Drove only 3 1/2 hours today and covered 160 miles. Bought gasoline in Colorado Springs at $1.659 and averaged 16.4 mpg on the last tank.

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