8. California

Day 22: Sunday, August 11

Have been taking a break for a couple of days - do laundry, upload the completed journal sections, clean the desert dust out of the Westy, etc. Now it's time to start the California leg of this trip, and the traditional first stop is with internet friend DrDan and his family in Coronado.

Dan is just a great guy -- we first met on the internet about ten years ago in a politically-oriented forum on Delphi, and in person during my first cross-country Westy trip in the spring of 1999 (see the 1999-1 journal.) Since then, whenever Dan sees from my journal postings that I'm headed for southern California, I'm invited to park in the driveway and spend an evening with him, his delightful family, and Steve, a most interesting friend.

We had a really fun evening together. An outstanding dinner at what the natives call "The Del" - the renowned hotel Del Coronado. Just lots of talk and catching up. Dan's charming wife, Rory, joined us for dinner, which really made the evening great.

Dan's children remind me so much of my own kids at that age. David is turning into a really neat (or should I say "cool") young man who is doing all the age-appropriate things like totalling Dad's car, charming the young ladies, etc. Just look at these then (1999) and now (2002) photos:

Daughter Dana is almost a teenager now, still loves cats (I lost count, but I think she's up to five) and here are photos of her in 2000 and 2002

And, needless to say, mother Rory hasn't changed at all

Rory with Dave, from the 2001 journal

Was on the road by 9:00 AM after a very good night's sleep and took I-15 (Escondido Freeway - quite scenic in parts) ) all the way to SR 138 to pick up the very scenic Angeles Crest Highway (SR 2.) This is one of the most spectacular drives I've taken. On previous visits the mountains were still covered with snow, and the last third of the road was still closed.

From Wrightwood headed down to I-210 and I-5 to Frazier Park and the Frazier Mountain Road. Then a truly memorable drive on Lockwood Canyon Road to SR 33. The vistas are out of this world.

Forest fires hit hard along SR 33 and it's sad to see the tremendous damage that has been done. Tree stumps, charred grounds, burned bushes, all colors but black and gray removed -- miles and miles of spoiled beauty.

Picked up SR 150 and then US 101 to take me to Buellton and the Flying Flags RV Park. Had to pay $27.50 for a parking space with electricity and water. Frankly, if it hadn't been close to sunset, I would have moved on to find a more attractive setting. But my first choice, the state parks along the ocean, were filled up.

Was on the road for 9 1/2 hours, drove 440 miles. Last night the temperature dropped to 68F, was 70F at departure, climbed to 110+F in the Antelope Valley, dropped back down to 80F at sunset and 60F at bedtime.

Day 23: Monday, August 12

hazy

A slightly disappointing day. The expected scenic highlight, a drive on US 395 along the eastern side of Sequoia National Park did not yield the expected vistas -- the smoke from the forest fires currently raging in the park obscured the mountains. On the drive from Lone Pine to Bishop via Independence and Big Pine I would occasionally catch a glimpse of Mt. Whitney, but that was all.

The day's drive started out with a quick visit to Solvang, much changed since the mid-sixties when I visited frequently. Then on back roads to Olivos (scenic) and through the lovely Foxen Canyon to SR 176 and a brief drive on SR 101. A scenic drive on SR 166/33 took me to Maricopa. After a brief drive on SR 99 Street Atlas directed me to take the Comanche Point Road to Tehachapi and SR 202.

Well, let me tell you about Comanche Point Road. I should have turned back when I saw the sign "Pavement Ends," but of course I didn't. The road turned into a rutted trail that climbed straight into the sky, with a few hairpin turns just to keep the driver on his toes. I've never driven such a road before. But had no choice but to go forward -- there simply wasn't enough road width between the mountain side and the sheer drop to turn the van around. For sixteen miles I lived in fear of an oncoming vehicle, a mechanical failure, and a sign announcing the end of the road. But I survived, made it to Tehachapi, where I treated the Westy to a Jiffy Lube visit and a car wash.

Then SR 202 and SR 14 through the desert to US 395, which is supposed to be a very scenic road, but it wasn't for me today. Mt. Whitney, at 14,494 the highest mountain in the lower 48 states, was visible only occasionally through the smog. No photo opportunity, but a tantalizing hint of fantastic scenic beauty. Definitely will have to take this road again.

Found the Brown Town campground just south of Bishop and called it a day. $22 got me a very narrow site with picnic table in back, water, electricity, cable TV and seven minutes in the very clean shower.

Was on the road for 8 1/2 hours and drove 370 miles. Bought gasoline at $1.699 and got 15.2 mpg on the last tank. Temperatures ranged from 56F during last night to 62F at departure to 117F in the desert to 99F at sundown.

Day 24: Tuesday, August 13

hazy

Slept very well, didn't wake up until 8:00 AM. Was on the road by 10:00.

Continued north on US 395 to the June Lake turn-off, SR 158. A very pleasant loop around several lakes with good views of what glaciers can do to a landscape. Rejoined US 395 for a pretty climb to SR 120, the Tioga Pass Road which crosses Yosemite National Park. SR 120 is a relatively easy road to drive with fabulous views of the granite peaks and fields of the Sierra Nevada. Here are the photos that made the final cut:

Exited the park via the Big Oak Flat Entrance and followed SR 120 and unmapped byways to Jamestown (funky, worth a look-see,) and SR 108 north to Pinecrest. Found the Meadow View NFS campground where $6.50 (after Golden Age discount) got me a reasonably level paved site with picnic table and fire ring.

Was on the road for 7 1/4 hours and drove 270 miles. Bought gasoline at $1.609/gal and averaged 14.8 mpg on the last tank. Temperatures ranged from 60F last night to 123F.

Day 25: Wednesday, August 14

hazy

Didn't sleep all that well, the altitude of 5,600' bothered me. Woke up at 5:00 AM and tried unsuccessfully to go back to sleep. Was on the road by 8:15 AM.

A great drive on the practically deserted Sonora Pass Highway (SR 108.) Very scenic, beautiful vistas, and absolutely no opportunity to pull off the road and take photos. This is the kind of road where one needs someone with a camera in the passenger seat. This is also the kind of road where the overall rig length limit of 26' is pushing it. Can you believe 15% grades?

SR 108 took me back to US 395, very pleasant and scenic. Shortly before the Nevada state line there had been a major forest fire about a month ago. What a sad sight!

Jumped off at SR 207 for a scenic and steep drive up to the pass and down again to Tahoe Village. Then embarked on a loop, sort of following the perimeter of this alpine lake - 6,225' above sea level and ringed by absolutely gorgeous peaks of the Sierra Nevada. Unfortunately, this being the height of the summer tourist season, the road was mostly bumper-to-bumper and forget about finding a parking space near the scenic overlooks. Definitely a road I want to take again, but not during June/July/August. If you go, avoid those months and be sure to plan the drive so that the lake is to your right. Much better vistas that way.

Took SR 431 back to US 395 and the short drive to Reno. Secured a full hook-up site at the KOA at the Reno Hilton -- $29.22!!! But the bathhouse is the best I've found so far on the road, the modem accomodations are very good (but slow connect speed) and the gigantic dinner at the Hilton was dirt cheap. Nevertheless, this time I did not feel obligated to spend a dollar on the slot machine.

It took more than 30 minutes to download e-mail. Got the Kletz virus three times (and it takes forever for Norton to analyze and reject it) and about 40 spam messages. This spamming thing is really getting out of hand and although Spamkiller filters them, it still takes a long time for the processing. Talk about targeting the marketing effort: The same spammer promises to enlarge my penis and, in a separate message, to give me bigger and firmer breasts! Does anybody ever actually buy anything from these people?

The afternoon temperature was above 110F and it hasn't cooled off much by 9 PM. Drove 210 miles today and was on the road for 6 1/2 hours. Found the cheapest gas, $1.599, in the Tahoe region. Only averaged 14.1 mpg.

Day 26: Thursday, August 15

hazy

The Reno altitude is 4,500' -- so slept very well, didn't wake up until 7:30 AM. The temperature at night remained in the high seventies, so ran the air conditioner all night. We were already at 80F when I hit the road by 10:15.

The most scenic drive today was on the Donner Pass Road, which pretty much parallels I-80 except for the enjoyable climb up to the pass. After a while I had no choice but to take I-80 westbound. Jumped off at SR 37 to connect with US 101, and to get to my destination -- Peggy and David B. in Novato.

Peggy and David bought their GTRV Westy just a few months ago. We met over the internet when they had questions about GTRV. They offered me their yard as a camping site during my next trip to California. Needless to say, I took them up on it and enjoyed meeting them.

A side note: I've corresponded with quite a few people who contacted me because they wanted to hear about first-hand experience with the GTRV Westy. I have met many of them, and without exception, they have been the most fun folks one could spend time with. I don't know why -- perhaps it takes a certain kind of person to be interested in the vagabond life style, but whatever -- it's just great to pull into the driveway of someone who by society's standards is a total (non-introduced) stranger and within 30 seconds sense a bond and a friendship that under normal societal circumstances would take perhaps years to develop.

Vivacious Peggy and thoughtful Dave were no exceptions. Of course, the fact that their toy poodle, Max, sensed my poodle deprivation and tried to make up for it with a thousand licks, made me feel extra welcomed.

We had dinner with Mike Reed, the GTRV Westy importer. I hadn't seen Mike in over four years, ever since I bought the first Westy from him. Here's the dinner photo:

Mike is the one with the vegetarian plate in front of him. I have heard that he has told people that I am "like off-the-wall-crazy" because of my obsession with touring and exploring scenic byways. Well, he isn't all that "normal" either. He abhors meat eating. Look at the photo - would you believe that Mike is more than 15 years my junior? I enjoyed pointing out to him that vegetarians don't live longer, they just look older earlier...

Drove 255 miles today and was on the road 5 3/4 hours.

Day 27: Friday, August 16

hazy

What an incredibly good night's sleep! Felt really tired and worn out after dinner last night, so excused myself at an impolitely early hour and headed for the Westy. Could get a good Sprint signal, so waited until 9:00 PM to connect via the cell phone and download messages. Was in the sleeping bag and almost asleep by 9:30 PM and didn't wake up until 7:15 AM. Barely had enough time to get myself dressed and cleaned up to go out for breakfast with David at a local eatery.

It was interesting to talk with David about his upcoming retirement. Been there -- done that. It still amazes me that after a forty year career in business -- consulting, managing and teaching -- I don't miss it at all. But I'm convinced that I would be a wreck by now if my post-business life had not been made interesting and exciting by my travels with the Westy. While on the road I observe couples in their seventies and even eighties traveling in their RVs -- often moving about in wheelchairs and with little electric transporters. Isn't it great that despite their physical limitations they still heed the call of he open road? At times, like at high altitudes, I find that camping isn't all that easy for me anymore -- but I sure hope that I'll be able to do it for a few more years. My Westy, after four years of traveling, has 143,000 miles on the odometer. I hope it (or its replacement) and I will be good for another 140,000 miles.

Sorry, didn't mean to get philosophical and personal. But one of the e-mails I received yesterday really hit me. I met Bob and Carolyn a few months ago, they wanted to see and drive a Westy before ordering. I liked them both and enjoyed giving them the grand tour. They had great plans for selling the house, touring the country, and then settling in a new place near their children. Well, Carolyn went to Toronto to get the Westy, Bob had a brain stroke, and he passed away within a week. What a tragedy, and although we only met once, for an hour or so, it's been on my mind all day as if a close friend or relative had died. My heart goes out to Carolyn. There is a lesson, I think, for all of us -- carpe diem. The Roman proverb of "use the day." We spend our lives thinking "someday I will ..." Friends, that 'someday' isn't going to wait forever. Smell the roses while your sense of smell is still functioning.

Well, I just don't seem to be able to snap out of this mood. So I'm not going to continue. The reports of the day are:

Changed my travel plans to avoid northeastern California because the forest fires are reducing visibility. There is no point to traveling to Mt. Shasta when it is smoked in.

Stayed on US 101 for most of the day, but detoured to enjoy the Avenue of the Giants. Definitely worth making a detour for. Was there in 2000 with Antje (see chapter 9 of the 2000-4 journal)

Traveled 420 miles and was on the road for 8 3/4 hours. Found a no hook-ups site (paved, picnic table, fire ring) at Mt. Humbug SP in Oregon for $16.

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