7. A spectacular drive in southwestern Utah

Day 16: Monday, August 5

mostly

Really slept well last night and didn't get up until 8:00 AM. Beautiful sunshine and a great shower. Was on the road by 10 AM and took I-15 south to Scipio, US 50 East to SR 28, and then SR 28 to SR 24 and Capitol Reef National Park.

Capitol Reef NP is named for its reeflike cliffs capped by white sandstone formations that are said to resemble the U.S. Capitol (I don't think so - perhaps there was some sucking up involved to get the government to make this area a national park?) There is a giant wrinkle in the Earth's crust that stretches for more than 100 miles across south-central Utah, from Thousand Lake Mountain to Lake Powell. This 65 million years old fold is called the Waterpocket Fold. It graphically illustrates the way the Earth's surface was built, folded and eroded. Numerous eroded basins or ''pockets'' that can hold thousands of gallons of rainwater are contained in this uprising. With the dry weather they've been having, didn't see any water pockets, but rock formations to die for:

Be sure to take the scenic road into the park. You'll pass by the campground and then enjoy a drive of about ten miles. Here are some pictures I took along the way:

After ten miles or so you will have to turn back - not a problem even for bigger rigs. Go back to the park entrance and continue east on SR 24. Turn around shortly before Caineville, unless you want to continue on SR 24.

The reason to include this stretch of about ten miles is to get a look at Cathedral Valley. All bright colors appear to have been drained from the formations - just a uniform black and gray.

Backtracked to pick up SR 12 to drive through the Dixie National Forest to Boulder. This is quite a scenic drive that climbs to 9,400' with grades so steep that I had to shift into first gear at times to maintain a resonable speed. But the view from the Steep Creek overlook made it worthwhile.

Dropped down about 3,000' on the way to Bolder and then SR 12 took me through the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument on a beautiful ridge road that provided unimaginable vistas whenever I'd dare to take my eyes off the road.

Eventually came to Escalante, where $14 got me a pleasant site at the Escalante SP (altitude 5,700') with sheltered picnic table. No hook-ups.

Was on the road for 7 1/2 hours and drove 310 miles. Bought gasoline at $1.599 and averaged 16.3 mpg. During last night the temperature dropped to 60F. It was 70F at departure, in the eighties most of the day except at higher altitudes (69F at 8,800',) 90F in the early evening, and 75F after sunset.

Day 17: Tuesday, August 6

Slept very well until 7:30 AM and enjoyed an excellent shower. Was on the road at 9:15 and continued on SR 12 to Canonville and the side road to Kodachrome Basin State Park. Definitely worth the 20 mile detour (round trip) and the $5 admission charge. Here are some photos:

Back on SR 12 there is a great view of the Table Top Plateau.

and after bypassing Bryce Canyon (see my 1999-3 journal) drove through the Red Canyon, the final scenic delight that SR 12 provides before it merges into US 89.

From Panguitch took the very scenic SR 143 to Panguitch Lake (where I saw a pair of eagles do aerobatics) and on SR 148 for the drive through Cedar Breaks National Monument, essentially a huge amphitheater that was produced by the same forces that created the other scenic wonders of the region such as Bryce or Zion. What makes Cedar Breaks different is that it is shaped like a giant coliseum, more than 2,000' deep and more than 3 miles in diameter. There are four overlooks, the one by the visitor center provided the best photos:

Picked up SR 14 for the short drive to Cedar City, where a full-sized Albertsons provided essentials for the pantry. Then I-15 south, which includes a spectacular drive through the Virgin River Gorge and the Virgin River Canyon. Crossed into Arizona and a few miles later entered Nevada.

My original plan was to spend the night at the Valley of Fire state park near Overton, NV. However, I would have arrived there around 3 PM Pacific Time, which meant at least another five to six hours of temperatures in excess of 100F, and I wasn't sure whether the park provided electricity to run the A/C. Decided to continue driving, hoping to find a commercial campground with hook-ups in the late afternoon. Drove through Las Vegas and then took US 95 south.

By 6:30 PM I ended up in Laughlin, NV -- a gambling town near the California border and across the Colorado River from Arizona. It was little more than a nameless bait shack on the Colorado River back in 1970, but now it is a gambling mecca.

The Riverside Hotel and Casino also has an RV Park, and for $20.33 I was given a level concrete pad next to a very attractive bathhouse, cable TV, electricity, water, and sewer. Got set up, showered the day's sweat away, put on clean clothes and headed for the courtesy bus that took me to the hotel across the street.

Enjoyed an excellent Tanqueray martini ($3.75), headed for the Rib Room and a slice of prime rib that a football player twice my weight couldn't have finished ($10.71 incl. tax), washed down with a Heineken beer ($3.50), followed by a slice of pie (included) and a Maker's Mark bourbon straight up ($3.75). In other words, I ate well. We all know that casino hotels provide inexpensive food and drink so that people come to gamble, and I felt obliged to follow expectations. Put a dollar into one of the machines. Lost. Went outside to catch the bus back to the van, and went to bed.

Drove 415 miles today, was on the road for 9 1/4 hours. Lowest temperature was 62F last night, highest 110F in the Nevada desert.

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