2. From Pueblo to Colorado Springs on Scenic Roads

Day 6: Friday, July 26

Enjoyed a night of a pleasant 65F temperature, made do without the air conditioner. Slept well until 5:00 AM Mountain time -- 6:00 AM on the biological clock that barely had time to adjust to Central time. Rolled over and got another 40 winks, up at 6 AM and on the road by 10:00 - after a leisurely breakfast, some route planning on the computer, dumping of the gray water and the porta-potti, and a long shower in the very comfortable bathhouse (50 cents for 3 minutes of hot water.)

Did some exploring in and around Pueblo. Founded in 1848 by a trader, Jim Beckwourth and his party of trappers at the confluence of Fountain Creek and the Arkansas River. By the following spring a thriving community had developed and Beckwourth dubbed it Pueblo, meaning ''town.'' Mountain men, trappers, traders, American Indians and immigrants convened at this crossroads post. Until a Ute massacre on Christmas Day 1854, which essentially wiped out everybody, Pueblo was the largest settlement in the region. The arrival of the railroad in 1872 and the discovery of coal near Trinidad made the town a booming workshop for the mines. By 1880 Pueblo's population had increased eight-fold, and its present status as Colorado's major industrial center was well established. A Mr. Thatcher made a bundle from the growth and development, and by 1893 had amassed enough of a fortune (mind you, this was before funny accounting) so that he could afford to spend $90,000 of real money to build Rosemount, a 37-room Victorian mansion. It is constructed of pink rhyolite stone and contains a plethora of original antique furnishings and family memorabilia that depict the gracious life of the late 1800s as well as the contributions of his succeeding generations of Thatchers to Pueblo and the state of Colorado.

Other attractions that I visited are a historic district that is not tacky at all and includes the beautifully restored Union Pacific Depot, and the Aircraft Museum, which consists of an airconditioned hanger and an outdoor display of WW II planes. I did not spend much time outside the hangar since by then the temperature was pushing three digits.

Drove south on I-25 to the little town of Walsenberg, which began as the Spanish village of Plaza de los Leones, but is now named after a German merchant who set up shop during the 1870s. Stopped at a Safeway to buy supplies and fresh fruit.

Had planned to spend the night at nearby Lathrop State Park, but all the electric sites were taken. Didn't want to spend a hot afternoon and evening without airconditioning, so moved on. US 160 took me through some beautiful vistas -- on my left the Spanish Peaks and the Sangre de Christo mountains on my right and ahead.

During a small detour to La Veta and Fort Francisco I got a particularly good view of the Spanish Peaks.

The road then climbs up to the North La Veta Pass, which is about 9,400" high, and drops down to a plateau that surrounds Blanca Peak (14,345'). Continued on to Alamosa where I found a KOA that had a water & electric site for me at $24.50. The altitude is 7,560 and last night's temperature was 46F. Obviously no need to run the air conditioner. The campground is modem-friendly so was able to get mail and upload.

Drove 170 miles today, was on the road for 6 hours. Spent the evening reading mail and working on the journal. Since I can't grill anywhere in Colorado, fixed myself a dinner of soup, crackers, salami, cheese, peaches, and strawberries. Didn't get to bed until after midnight.

Day 7: Saturday, July 27

light haze

Didn't get to bed until very late and was up by 7:00 AM. During the night the temperature dropped to 53F and the van's furnace kicked in. A reassuring sound.

The morning shower was excellent. Availed myself of modem availability to finish uploading and corrected some error. Was on the road by 9:30 AM, cloudy skies and a temperature of 65F. Continued west on US 160 through the San Luis Valley and then switched to US 285 north to leave the valley via the Concha Pass (9,010') and to drop down into the Arkansas Valley.

Took US 50 eastbound from Poncha Springs to Salida, an attractive tourist town that is worth a stop.

Next came a spectaculary scenic drive along the Arkansas river. Took a county road to the south entrance of the Royal Gorge (a road prohibited to all but passenger cars and small vans).

The guard at the entrance station wanted to charge me the full price without senior discount. He told me that I don't look over sixty. Made my day!

Coming in from the south means having to drive across the Royal Gorge Bridge. The bridge just happens to be the world's highest suspension bridge (1,260') and it is only 18' wide, which made me fold in the left side mirror when I had to get by an oncoming trolley. Perhaps even more disconcerting is that the bridge isn't paved -- 3" thick planks do the job and it's a looong way down to the Arkansas river.

Parked the van on the north side and did some exploring and picture taking of the bridge.

Continued on the park road to my planned destination, the Royal Gorge KOA. Didn't like it's appearance at all, so moved on to the Royal View Camp Resort, where $21.79 got me a level site under what passes for a shade tree in these parts. An appreciated feature is that I could order a pizza delivered to my site, and that I got a strong Sprint signal and could call home and take care of e-mail.

Only drove 160 miles today, was on the road for 5 1/2 hours. Bought gasoline (97 octane, which is a price level above the 85 octance that is the price-to-compare at station signs) for $1.529/gal. Only averaged 14.8 mpg on the last tank.

Temperatures reached a high of 92F before dropping to 75F at sunset. Am camped at an altitude of 6,255'

Day 8: Sunday, July 28

Enjoyed a reasonably good night's sleep and was on the road by 8:30 AM. Got off US 50 to take the Skyline Drive, a beautiful but very narrow road some 800' above US 50. 22' length limit.

Canon City is home to Colorado's state prison, and a museum is attached to the complex. I decided to check it out. For the second time in 24 hours I had to specifically ask for the senior discount! My cup runneth over, especially since this time the cashier was a not unattractive young lady!

I wonder whether my one week old beard has anything to do with this? What do you think?

They give you a little tag to wear to identify you as a legitimate visitor.

The prison museum is quite interesting. Times have changed, prison life today is probably a lot more comfortable (or, better, less uncomfortable) than it was before we became "enlightened" (ca after Eisenhower).

Left US 50 to take SR 67 -- the Phantom Canyon Road -- north to the mining towns of Victor and Cripple Creek. The towns aren't worth visiting, but the Phantom Canyon Road is.

Originally built to bring gold ore from the mountains to Canon City, it is a narrow dirt road that climbs nearly 4,000' through rough canyons and sub-alpine forests. Along the way are spectacular views of the high mountains in the area. Here are some photos:

Visited the Cripple Creek District Museum to look at its good collection of gold mining-related items.

Continued on SR 67 to Divide and then US 24 to Colorado Springs. This road is supposed to be quite scenic, with good views of Pike's Peak. But clouds prevented a really good peek at the peak.

Was not impressed with downtown Colorado Springs and proceeded north to the little town of Monument and the grandly named (and highly priced for uneven camp sites) Lake of the Rockies Campground Resort and Retreat. $24.50 got me an uneven site under a scraggly tree, with picnic table, water, electricity, and sewer. The campground permits grilling with charcoal, so had a filet for dinner, followed by a salad of peaches and strawberries.

Was on the road for 6 1/2 hours and drove all of 150 miles. The temperature was 75F at departure, climbed into the mid-nineties during the day, but dropped into the low seventies in the evening. Enjoyed sunshine and blue skies with high clouds most of the day.

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