1. To Colorado - with overnight stops in Pennsylvania, Illinois, Missouri, and Kansas
Day 1: Sunday, July 21
Although this is journal 2002-1, it isn't the the first camping trip of the year. Have been to Florida twice; to attend the Central Florida Camping Group Rally in March/April, and to "enjoy" four rained-out weeks at on Key Biscayne. The routes I took have been described in previous journals, the campgrounds were nothing out of the ordinary (with the notable exception of Gamble-Rogers State Park near Flagler Beach, FL = ***) and I was just too lazy to keep journals. However this trip will be special -- I'll be adding two new states to my list of "States Where I've Camped": Illinois and Kansas. I'll be experiencing new scenic roads and revisiting some favorite places. All in all I expect to be on the road for forty days and will add some 10,000 miles to the odometer of the Westy -- bringing the total to about 145,000 miles.
While I'm on the road Antje and the poodles will be guarding the homestead, and the realtors will be trying to sell it. Of course, if a buyer materializes I'll have to get back to NJ in a hurry -- mainly because the van will be needed to cart much of the "junque" we accumulated over 31 years to the landfill. We are downsizing from 3,000+ sq ft to much less than 1/2 of that in the Key Biscayne townhouse.
While I hope that the house will sell (contact me if you need a fabulous home in Mountain Lakes, NJ) I also hope it will sell with a closing date in October so that I can complete this trip. Stay tuned for developments and late-breaking news . . .
Anyway, these and related thoughts kept me from going back to sleep when I first woke up at 4 AM this morning. At 5 AM I gave up and headed for the bathroom. Decided against shaving. Why not grow a beard over the next six weeks? Photos will follow.
Went to a nearby diner for a breakfast of fried eggs, bacon, toast and coffee and then the trip started. For the first time I'm using DeLormes's Street Atlas Deluxe (SA) and the Tripmate GPS. Quickly discovered that my accent and the voice recognition engine don't get along very well. For some reason or other SA kept showing me maps of areas not anywhere near my route, and my commands were either ignored or misinterpreted. Pulled into several rest areas along the way to get the system back on track, but mainly drove by memory. Took I-80 westbound to the Delaware Water Gap, often a beautiful drive but today it was cloudy, foggy, and occasionally rainy. Stayed on I-80 through the Poconos and then switched to I-81 southbound. A well-maintained road almost all the way to Harrisburg, PA and very little traffic so early on a Sunday morning. Some road construction east of Harrisburg, and then smooth pavement again. This used to be a horribly bumpy stretch, but it has been repaved and rebuilt.
The sun came out as I picked up the Pennsylvania Turnpike (I-76) near Carlyle and headed west through some rather pretty country. There are several tunnels, Kittatinny, Blue Mountain, Tuscarora, and Allegheny that I wouldn't want to go through with an extra-wide class A. A scenic road much of the time, the vistas down from mountains and ridges are quite pleasant.
Jumped off the turnpike at the little town of Sommerset and followed SR 281 to Confluence and the Ohiopyle State Park.
The park road to the camping area is a windy up-and-down affair and when I came to a stop sign I noticed a bad smell and smoke coming off the right front end of the van. It went away quickly, but both front wheel covers were very hot to the touch. I had the Ford dealer inspect the van last week -- they didn't say anything about worn brakes. Will keep an eye on it tomorrow.
Here are excerpts from the park brochure:
Ohiopyle State Park encompasses approximately 19,052 acres of rugged natural beauty and serves as the gateway to the Laurel Mountains. The focal point of the area is the more than 14 miles of the Youghiogheny River Gorge that passes through the heart of the park. The "Yough" provides some of the best whitewater boating in the Eastern United States as well as spectacular scenery.
In addition to the whitewater pleasures the park has lots and lots of hiking trails, about 80 miles in total. There are over 200 campsites, but only a few have electric hook-ups. There are no water or sewer hook-ups. Pets are not allowed and alcoholic beverages are forbidden (have gin and tonic hidden under the table.) The cost of a site with picnic table and fire ring is $14. PA residents get a $2 discount, and a surcharge of $2 is added for Friday and Saturday night stays. Needless to say, didn't avail myself of the hiking or whitewater opportunities. Instead spent the afternoon trying to improve my relationship with Street Atlas.
Derived extra cooling comfort from the screen that Antje has sewn for the side door of the van. It really makes a big difference to be able to keep the door open and get more ventilation. It is attached with magnets and does a great job of keeping the bugs out.
Temperature climbed from 69F in the morning to the mid-eighties in the afternoon. Drove 360 miles today, was on the road for 7 hours. Will have the usual dinner (for the first night out): beef tartare. "Thank you" Antje. No TV reception, will go to bed early.
Day 2: Monday, July 22
hazy
With working on the journal and all it was 11 PM last night before I crawled into the sleeping bag. Promptly fell asleep but woke up at 5:00 AM. Tried to go back to sleep but gave up at 6:00. Fixed a good breakfast of English muffins, coffee, and orange juice and was on the road by 8:00 AM.
Enjoyed a leisurely drive on SR 318, US 40 and some pretty back roads to get back to I-70. From then on it was total boredom. I-70 in West Virginia, Ohio and Indiana. Stopped at the West Virginia welcome station to get a map and a brochure on state parks, did the same in Ohio. Indiana and Illinois don't seem to have welcome stations along I-70. Also used the WV stop to avail myself of good Sprint signal strength and took care of e-mail. C called home -- the house didn't sell during the Open House yesterday, so I don't need to turn around and go back.
The GPS/Street Atlas and I got along much better today. Discovered that I should turn on the microphone only when I want to give a voice command. When I leave it on, as I did yesterday, SA will interpret road noise as a command and do all sorts of crazy things. I'm also discovering program features, such as the "Turn" display, that I find very helpful.
I-70 is a road to avoid. I feel sorry for the RVers whose big rigs force them onto interstates. I'm taking I-70 because it is a quick way to get to Colorado via campgrounds in Illinois and Kansas - the two major states still missing on the map pasted to the side of the van.
Had planned to spend the night at Lincoln Trail State Park, near Marshall, IL. When I arrived there the ranger warned me that the showers were closed for renovation. He recommended a nearby county park, Mill Creek Park Campground. Went there and got a lovely site with water and electricity for $13. Needed electricity because the temperature of 102 F made me want to run the air conditioner.
Settled in, grilled an excellent filet for dinner, followed by a desert of two bourbon balls that Antje had made for me based on Joanne's recipe -- but improved by doubling the quantity of bourbon and using Maker's Mark.
I had just finished grilling when the thunderstorm started. Pretty severe, and the power went out several times. I take comfort in what I think I learned in Physics back in my high school days -- a car is like a Farady's cage, and you can't get struck by lightning when you're in it. If I learned wrong, don't tell me.
Was on the road for 11 hours and drove 522 miles. Bought gasoline in Ohio for $1.399/gal. Averaged 15.3 mpg on the last tank. Gained an hour because Illinois is on Central time.
Day 3: Tuesday, July 23
Although lightning and thunder continued into the night, went to bed shortly before midnight. Fell asleep quickly but woke up at 6 AM -- perhaps because my biological clock is still on Eastern time. The showers in the clean bathhouse were disappointing -- the water was lukewarm at best. On the road by 8:30 AM. Cloudy, temperature in the low seventies. Backroads brought me back to I-70, and then it was interstate driving for the rest of the day. The western Illinois landscape isn't unattractive -- rolling hills, well-maintained farmhouses, clean roadsides. Missouri, west of St. Louis, offers some pretty vistas of rolling hills and lush valleys.
Traffic got heavy as I approached St. Louis, and construction sites didn't help. Took I-270 to bypass St. Louis, but the first 30 miles were a nightmare of road construction, speeding drivers, and get-out-of-the-way-or I'll-squash-you truckers. Traffic improved about 30 miles west of the Missisippi and it was fairly smooth driving at 75 mph from then on.
Street Atlas "sort of" cooperated and helped me find my way to the Knob Knoster State Park, which is supposed to be one of the three best Missouri state parks. Based on the setting, I would agree that it is a lovely park. Got there by 3:30 PM and spent the rest of the afternoon experimenting with Street Atlas.
I have been asked how I put the laptop into the van. It's not difficult. There is a space, about 5/8" between the console and the dashboard. Bought a 1/2" board at Home Depot which they cut to 13" by 19". Slide the board into the space, glue some rubber bumpers to the bottom so that it won't slip out unless lifted up, and put down some Velcro strips to hold the laptop in place.
The excess corners will be trimmed off when I get to Oregon, where my old Black & Decker saw has found an appreciative home with son Mark.
Drove 370 miles, was on the road for 7 hours. Bought gasoline in Illinois for $1.359/gal and averaged 15.1 mpg on the last tank. Temperatures ranged fro the low seventies in the morning to the mid-eighties in the afternoon. Clouds lifted around noon, enjoyed hazy sunshine in the afternoon.
Grilled another one of the filets - I understand that outdoor cooking/grilling is not allowed in Colorado, so need to use up my supply. Went to bed at 11 PM.
Finally, haven't shaved for three days. Am beginning to look pretty grubby.
Day 4: Wednesday, July 24
hazy
The temperature during the night dropped to 65F, which made for a pleasant sleep. Woke up at 6 AM, enjoyed a good shower in the very comfortable shower house, and was on the road by 8:30 AM.
Took US 50 and back roads to get back to I-70. Wanted to be on the interstate when crossing into Kansas so that I would be sure to find a welcome station and get a road map. Driving through Kansas City, Missouri and Kansas City, Kansas on I-70 was not pleasant -- heavy traffic and rude drivers. Found the welcome station, got the road map and a brochure on state parks, and called home. Took the Kansas Turnpike to Topeka and US 24 to Manhattan.
The only scenic road listed for Kansas in National Geographics Guide to Scenic Highways is SR 177 from Manhattan to Cassoday (the prairie chicken capital of the world) and the I-35 interchange. Obviously, I had to explore this.
It's a pleasant road through the Flint Hills, with good vistas of the prairie and tallgrass. Along the way is the little town of Cottonwood Falls (pop 900), the county seat. Its 1873 Renaissance-style courthouse is the oldest courthouse in Kansas that is still in use.
Continued on I-35 to Wichita and the nearby Cheney State Park. $5 is the fee for getting into the park, $6.50 is the cost of a campsite with water and picnic table. Another $6.50 for electricity -- and air conditioning is needed when the temperature is 105F in the shade.
Put the Kansas sticker on my map - have now camped in all the major states. Am still missing NJ, CT, and DE plus, of course, Alaska and Hawaii.
TV reception was good enough to watch the news. Grilled a couple of hot dogs for dinner and finished off the bourbon balls.
Drove 372 miles today, was on the road for 7 1/2 hours. Temperatures ranged from 65F in the morning to 105F in the late afternoon. Bought gasoline in Manhattan at $1.459 and averaged 16.2 mpg on the last tank.
Day 5: Thursday, July 25
hazy
Slept well and got up at 6:30 AM. During the night the temperature had dropped to 70F, which made for a good rest. Since the bathhouse was about 3/4 of a mile away, decided to have breakfast and unhook and take the morning shower on my way out. Was on the road by 9:00 AM and the thermometer had already climbed to 75F.
Had planned to take US 50 all the way to Dodge City and Pueblo, but road construction detours and Street Atlas took me on to side roads -- ranging from good state roads to unimproved gravel county roads. At times the SA logic escapes me.
Spent some time in Dodge City. Here are excerpts from Map 'n Go's descriptive material:
Fittingly called ''Hell on the Plains'' and the ''Wickedest Little City in America,'' Dodge City was a wide-open town during the late 1800s. Its infamous Front Street was one of the wildest on the frontier, with one well-stocked saloon for every 20 citizens. Cattlemen, buffalo hunters, soldiers, settlers, gunfighters, railroad men and mule skinners thronged the streets, to the delight and profit of the card sharks, brothel keepers and morticians.
Boot Hill, so called because so many of its interees were buried with their boots on, was an ongoing concern. Wyatt Earp and Bat Masterson were among the few able to control the city's lawless elements.
Dodge City began as a stopover on the Santa Fe Trail; wagon wheel ruts still are visible in the sod 9 miles west via US 50. By late 1872 it was a station on the railroad. Buffalo hunting was intense in the area, and the trading of hides, meat and ultimately bones brought considerable wealth to the town. By the time the buffalo nearly were extinct, bellowing herds of Texas cattle had become the primary source of income, and Dodge City became one of the largest cattle markets in the country.
Why was buffalo hunting so intense? Well it was yet another "successful" government program. The experts in Washington, DC had the brilliant idea that if the Indians were deprived of their main source of food and clothing (the buffalo) then they would move away and no longer bother the travelers on the Santa Fe Trail. So they paid big money for dead buffalos, and the Indians concluded that highway robbery was more profitable than hunting.
Boot Hill Museum and Front Street is a complex encompassing the historic cemetery, the Fort Dodge jail and a replica of Front Street as it appeared in the 1870s. Boot Hill, burial place of gunmen and friendless unfortunates, was named for a gunman killed on the spot and buried with his boots on. In summer a horse-drawn stage tours the town, and the Long Branch Saloon presents entertainment and the Saloon Revue during the day; food is available.
The museum is sort of interesting with many artifacts and "original repreductions." Possibly the best part is a 15 min video that narrates the history of Dodge City.
Continued on US 50 (and SA-suggested side roads) to Pueblo and the Pueblo State Park a the Pueblo Reservoir. Admission (day pass) is $5.00, plus $14.00 for a campsite with a picnic table and electricity (no water). "View lots" are an additional $2.00. The showers are far way, and shade is unavailable.
Have excellent TV reception, so could take in the news. Outdoor cooking is not allowed, so fixed a dinner of cheese, salami and crackers, followed by three Pepperidge Farm Sausalito cookies, nuked for 15 seconds.
Drove 490 miles today and was on the road for 10 hours. Bought gasoline in Dodge City and paid $1.409/gal. Averaged 15.7 mpg. Temperatures ranged from 70F in the early morning to 110F in the late afternoon. Sure am grateful for my 110 VAC air conditioner. Pueblo is on Mountain time, so gained an hour.
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