2. SOUTHBOUND TO KEY BISCAYNE, FL

Day 5: Thursday, October 25

The weather forecasters were right -- a major drop in temperature. Before the storm last night it was about 80F, an hour later we were at 50F. During the night it dropped to 40F and I had a hard time getting myself out of the warm sleeping bag in the morning. But the showers had hot water and heat lamps. Unfortunately the water was controlled by one of those pushbutton valves, so had to practice my push-with-one-hand, soap-with-the-other-hand skills. Considering that water is plentiful in the Land Between The Lakes, what an idiotic way to torture campers! Yet, it is likely that some cretin of a Washington USDA bureaucrat got a meritorious service medal and a bonus for imposing this kind of nonsenese on the paying (and tax paying) public.

Anyway, was on the road by 9:45 AM (my time, I refuse to switch over to Central time for the two days that I'll be in this time zone) and headed north on the Trace to see the Kentucky dam, power house and locks. But everything was "Off Limits," because of fears of sabotage. Honestly -- is it reasonable to expect that some terrorist would carry a bomb into the powerhouse? There must be more important targets. The main news story on Paducah TV was that two immature coeds at Murray State University sent some baby powder to their boyfriends, then had second thoughts and reported themselves to authorities. Nevertheless, haz-mat teams were brought in to shut down the post office. A bio-haz suit costs $800 and can be used only once. Multiply by ten haz-mat team members for a cost of $8,000 just for the suits. I'm sure that the girls will not be made to pay -- after all, they are just victims of their own immaturity or whatever. Disgusting. The prank cost us taxpayers at least $10,000 and the girls will probably get off with probation. Is this a great country, or what? Why not export them to Afghanistan?

Excuse the digression, but I needed to vent.

Prevented from seeing the locks I turned south on the Trace, the main road through the Land Between the Lakes. A beautiful drive through what used to be called "Land Twixt the Rivers" until the 1960s when the TVA dammed the Tennessee and Cumberland rivers to create Lake Kentucky and Barkley Lake and in the process flooded the homes of some 2,600 families. All this for the sake of flood control and navigation -- power generation was an afterthought. Since during Prohibition this Land Twixt th Rivers was home to one of the nation's most notorious moonshining operations, governmental revenge might have been a factor in the decision to flood the land . . .

A great stop along the Trace is the Homeplace, a living history museum that recalls the work, play and customs of a rural family in the area in the mid-19th century. 16 recreated log buildings are worth inspecting and they communicate effectively what life for the farmers was like 150 years ago. Tough. You can't help but walk away with an enhanced level of respect for those hardy souls who built this country, and a feeling of disgust for today's whiners, anthrax pranksters, and dependents on government handouts.

Still venting, excuse me.

Once off the Trace, headed southeast on US 79 to Clarksville (attractive downtown area) and US 41 to Springfield.Then SR 76 to White House and SR 25 to Gallatin, also a picturesque little town. Had planned to spend the night at nearby Bledsoe Creek State Park.

The park was closed, barricaded, shut down. Parked at the entrance to research for the nearest alternate park. A security guard drove up in a little golf cart and told me the following incredible story: "The governor wanted to institute a state income tax. It was voted down. All representatives who voted against the tax are being punished, and one form of punishment is to close the state parks in their area for lack of funds. The Gallatin area representative voted against, and Bledsoe Creek got closed." What a shitty way to run a state. She recommended that I head for nearby Lebanon and the Cedars of Lebanon State Park. Their representative voted the "right" way, his state park is open except for Mondays and Tuesdays.

Got to Cedars of Lebanon SP and secured a good site with water and electricity for $15.50. Bathhouse looks OK, except that most of the electric bulbs are inoperative. Another economy move, I guess.

One of my evening activities was to redraw my travel plans, to cut out the tourist attractions I had intended to visit in Tennessee, and to draft an e-mail to that idiot of a governor. I certainly will not spend any of my tourist dollars in this state. Had planned to do some major grocery and supplies purchasing tomorrow, but will wait until I get to Georgia.

Drove 210 miles and was on the road for 6 1/4 hours. Beautiful sunshine all day, with the temperature climbing into the mid seventies (and dropping into the fifties after sunset.)

Day 6: Friday, October 26

Apparantly I have a hard time getting up in the morning if it's cold outside. Since the nighttime temperature dropped to 37F I was very creative at finding excuses for not unzipping the toasty warm sleeping bag. Didn't get up until 8:30 AM!

I guess the parsimonious governor also ordered a reduction in the water pressure for the bathhouse. Isn't it annoying when, try as you might, you can't get enough water to rinse the shampoo out of your hair or the soap off your body?

Was on the road by 10:45 AM. Beautiful sunshine, temperature of 47F. It got all the way to 65F as the day progressed.

Zig-zagged around some backroads to connect with US 70 eastbound. This is pretty country -- gently rolling hills, and sloping fields and pastures. Made my way to Smithville and the McMinnville area. Had originally planned to visit the Cumberland Caverns, but decided against it last night. Let's wait until the governor becomes more tourist-friendly and reopens the state parks.

Headed east on US 70S to Sparta, a very pleasant and mostly scenic road. Reconnected with US 70 and enjoyed the very scenic drive to Lenoir City. Had a strong Sprint PCS signal and pulled off the road to connect to my ISP. It worked well on the 7th try and I got my e-mail.

It's a short dive from Lenoir City to my internet buddy Hunter Hampton's place. If you read my 2001-2 journal, you might remember the photos of her and her toys. She is definitely one of the most interesting people I know, and an absolute pleasure to spend some time with. Well, Hunter has decided that living in a log home on a 4+ acres spread in southeastern Tennessee isn't really what she wants to do. She wants to get back to full-time RVing, living in her gorgeous Airstream trailer with Tucker and Brady (the border collies) and two cats. But this time around, she isn't putting anything into storage as she did when she and her animals went cross-country the last time.

Her daughter got first dibbs on the heirlooms and all, the rest has to go if it doesn't fit into the trailer. Can't help but admire the total commitment to get rid of the past and to prepare for a nomad's life. I hope she'll get a good price for the house and the contents so that she'll be worry-free while she full-times. BTW, she writes great trip reports and anecdotes related to her travel adventures -- so I'm a bit selfish in encouraging her to hit the road. Her stuff is so much more fun to read than what I record as I travel.

Was on the road for 6 1/4 hours and traveled 200 miles. Bought gasoline at $1.179/gal and averaged 17.4 mpg on the last tank.

Day 7: Saturday, October 27

Another cold night (35F) and another morning where I just couldn't get out of the sleeping bag. Hunter had suggested breakfast at eight, I had counter-offered 9:00 AM, but it was 9:30 AM before I went over to the house.

Customers for her "stuff" were already there -- and I admired Hunter's selling skills. Her pitch and timing were perfect as she casually made the potential customer want to buy this painting or that souvenir. I especially liked how she would weave in that not only the goodies, but also the whole ranch was for sale. This lady could make a fortune in sales!

But she could also make a fortune with her breakfasts. Hunter, thanks for the fabulous pancakes, eggs, and turkey bacon!

Left at 10:00 AM and followed the same beautiful route I had taken last Spring -- US 321 and SR 95 to US 129 to cross the Tennessee river and to travel along Fort Loudoun Lake and the river through the Cherokee National Forest to North Carolina. This is a very beautiful drive through the Appalachian mountains to Topton, NC. Along the way came across a horrible accident scene: A motorcyclist apparently spun out in one of those sharp turns and was stretched out dead on the pavement. The first fatal accident I've come across in the 120,000+ miles of my travels. Bummer.

Made a left turn on US 19 (this is where I got lost during the Spring trip) and found the Waywah Road to Acquone, one of the most winding and scenic roads I have ever traveled. Climbed from less than 2,000' altitude to over 4,000' through the Nantahala Game Reserve and back down again to the junction with SR 28 and the little town of Franklin, NC., where the Cullasaja empties into the Little Tennessee River. Then US 441/US 23 to US 76 and Westminster, and SR 24/187/81 to SR 28, the rather scenic Savannah River highway and the town of McCormick. SR 28 merges into US 211 and then there is the turn-off on Georgia SR 47 that leads to the Mistletoe State Park.

The park is located on the shores of the Clarks Hill Reservoir which was created by the Clarks Hill dam on the Savannah river. It's a huge lake with some 1,200 miles of shoreline. The sites are incredibly well maintained and quite level. $14.65 got me a site of my choosing, with water and electricity. Checked out the bathhouse and it is spotless. Further proof of my theory that Georgia has fantastic stateparks.

Was on the road for 7 1/4 hours and traveled 300 miles. Beautiful sunshine for most of the day, the temperature didn't get above 60F.

Day 8: Sunday, October 28

Nighttime temperature of 40F made for a late start in the morning. It didn't help that I had good TV reception and could watch the Sunday morning talk shows. Was on the road by 10:30 AM, cloudless sky and a temperature of 50F.

Backtracked to US 221 and enjoyed a pleasant drive through central Georgia. Some pretty towns along the way, usually with attractive courthouse squares and well-maintained downtown areas. Passed through Harlem, Wrens, Kite, Soperton, Hazelhurst and Douglas on my way to US 129 and Stockton.

Saw many cotton fields with unpicked cotton -- a very pretty sight.

US 129 took me to I-75, which is a busy and fast interstate. Drove it to the Florida state line and on to the last Gainesville exit. From there it was a short drive on US 441 to the Paynes Prairie State Preserve near Micanopy.

Was on the road for 6 1/2 hours, drove 345 miles. Stopped for gasoline in Uvalda, GA and was able to profit from the price war that seemed to be going on between the four stations at the crossroad. $.999 for unleaded Texaco gas! Averaged 16.8 mpg on the last tank.

This 21,000 acre preserve is managed by the Florida Park Service and is a pleasure to visit. 35 RV sites and 15 tent sites are nestled into the bushes, shaded by old pine trees.The bathhouse is arguably the cleanest and best maintained one that I have encountered. Lots of trails and a lake for swimming, boating, and fishing. $10.90 got me a level site with water, electricity, fire ring, and picnic table.

Sat outside for a while, enjoying the sunset and the 66F temperature. Then watched TV, good reception on channel 20, ABC, out of Gainesville.

Day 9: Monday, October 29

My last day on the road to Key Biscayne. Took US 441 southbound. Just north of Ocala made a short detour to say "hello" to internet friend Dot and her husband Bob. Admired their motor home, and Dot and Bob were surprised by how comfortable my Westy is for a solo traveller like I am.

Back to US 441 and I-75, the Florida Turnpike, I-95, and Key Biscayne. There isn't any scenic beauty to speak of, and the objective soon becomes to get to the destination as quickly as possible.

Stopped for gas on the turnpike, paid $1.229/gal at the Pompano Service area. Averaged 16.6 mpg. Lost track of how much I had to pay in tolls, close to $15.00 for sure, plus the $1.00 it costs to get on Key Biscayne.

Was on the road for 5 3/4 hours and drove 350 miles. The sun went away when I approached Miami, and it was cold, rainy, and cloudy the rest of the day.

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