7. TEXAS, OKLAHOMA, AND ARKANSAS
Day 27: Friday, April 6
Woke up at 6:30 AM, but since it was cloudy and only 52F, decided to sleep in. Napped for a couple of hours, enjoyed the great bathhouse, dumped grey water, and hit the road at 10:15 AM -- still cloudy, 61F.
Took backroads as much as possible in order to avoid the inevitable -- driving on I-40. Ran out of backroads after a while and jumped on I-40 for the boring trip to Amarillo. You just can't imagine how flat and monotonous the High Plains of Texas are.
Headed south from Amarillo on I-27, following the signs to the Palo Duro Canyon State Park. An incredible surprise awaited me: The most beautiful state park setting I have experienced, in a canyon some 800' below the flat high plains. The drive down to the bottom of the canyon and the campground is spectacular, and the park road that loops around the bottom offers magnificent vistas.
From the National Geographic's Driving Guide for Texas:
Palo Duro sits on the Cap Rock Escarpment, the eastern boundary of the Llano Estacado.Here the harder rock that lies just under the surface is slowly eroding away, exposing the softer sandstone, shale, mudstone, and gypsum underneath and creating a spectacle often compared, quite aptly, to a smaller-scale Grand Canyon. Over the past million years or so, the Prairie Dog Town Fork Red River has cut down nearly 800 feet through the cliffs, exposing brightly colored layers of rock sculptured in weird and wonderful ways.
Checked out my assigned campsite ($14 for water, electricity, picnic table, and fire ring) and found it to be reasonably level and fairly private. Since it was still early in the day, and since it isn't my nature to go hiking or horse-back riding, decided to take a driving tour recommended in the National Geographic's Guide to Scenic Highways and Byways.
With the help of DeLorme's Map 'n Go CD-ROM found backroads to take me to Silverton, and then drove the recommended scenic byway, SR 207 to Claude. Initially I thought that there had been some mistake -- nothing scenic about unbroken flatland where cow pastures, desert with juniper trees, and cultivated fields alternate for miles on end. But quite suddenly the Plains part and reveal the spectacular, 9 mile-wide, 120 mile long Palo Duro Canyon. There is a picnic area close to the southern approach to the canyon -- beautiful views.
The road winds down to the bottom of the canyon and crosses the little river that is responsible for all this abnormality.
Drove on to the town of Claude and took farm roads back to the state park.
While I was setting up, the campground host drove by to warn campers that a weather warning had been issued -- severe thunderstorms, hail, tornados, 70 mph winds. Hooked up the van but didn't raise the roof. Sure enough, within half an hour there was a hail storm, strong winds, lightning and thunder. Nature's show of force lasted all of 20 minutes, did not do any damage to my van (but did inflict hail damage to a lot of other rigs), and was followed by bright sunshine. But the grounds and the picnic table are wet and covered with debris -- so I'll eat in tonight.
Was on the road for about 6 hours and drove 285 miles. Temperatures ranged from 52F at night to the low eighties at midday to 78F when I set up camp to 50F after the hailstorm.
Here are the last photos of the day -- the view from my van after the storm - before and after sunset.
Day 28: Saturday, April 7
Since I had planned an easy driving schedule for today, didn't get out of the sleeping bag until 7:30 AM. Took a long hot shower in the very clean and comfortable bathhouse, ate breakfast, and was on the road by 9:45 AM.
Had expected a mostly boring drive, but was pleasantly surprised. Cruised around downtown Amarillo for a while -- a rather nondescript prairie town -- then took I-40 east for a while, then US 287 to Claude, Goodnight (yes, there is such a place), Clarendon, and Memphis, TX. Then drove SR 256 east, a rather attractive rural road through rolling hills and farm country, then US 62 into Oklahoma.
At Altus headed north on US 283 and SR 44 to drive through the Quartz Mountains, an outcrop of the Wichita Mountains. I had always thought of the southwestern part of Oklahoma as being flat -- now I know better.
Picked up US 183 eastbound and soon arrived at the Great Plains State Park, my destination for the day. The park stretches along the shores of a reservoir. The sites are well maintained, many with concrete pads, and offer picnic tables, water, and electricity for $ 14.00 per night. The friendly ranger, noting that I had not hooked up electricity, charged me the price for an unimproved tent site, $7.00. The view is quite pretty, especially since the trees are beginning to show leaves.
It's been a pleasant day with cloudless skies, a temperature that climbed from the night's low of 47F into the mid-eighties, varied scenery, and little wind. Drove 260 miles today, was on the road for 5 hours, bought gas in Clarendon, TX for $1.499 (averaged 16.1 mpg on the last tank) and -- finally -- got to add the Oklahoma decal to the map on the side of the van that shows the states where I have camped.
Day 29: Sunday, April 8
Spent most of the day in an unsuccessful attempt to find scenic beauty. On the few occasions where I managed to travel a road that offered scenic vistas or just pretty colors of springtime, the roadside would be littered -- as badly (or worse) than what I have seen in Louisiana. The one laudable exception was the drive through the Wichita Mountains National Wildlife Preserve.
Started the day at 7:30 AM, grey skies, high humidity, temperature of 61F. Couldn't find a bathhouse that wasn't either locked or closed for renovation - so had to do without my customary morning shower. Was on the road by 9:45 AM. Headed east on SR 49, which probably would have been outstandingly beautiful if the sun had been out. The road leads through the Wichita Mountains National Wildlife Preserve and is a pleasure to drive. Saw lots of deer, buffalo, and Texas Longhorns -- some even walking along the side of the road. However, Mount Scott was barely visible through the occasional breaks in the cloud cover.
Made my way to Lawton and visited Fort Sill. The old fort is quite interesting and worth a visit, if you're in the area. The more contemporary Missile Park exhibits missiles and rockets from 1944 to the present -- worth a stop if you're interested in that. Since Fort Sill is sort of the Harvard/Yale/Princeton of the US Army Field Artillery, I had hoped for a more informative museum that would have explained, for example, how guns are aimed, trajectories are calculated, impact zones are evaluated, or results are measured.
The rest of the driving day was pretty much a waste as far as scenery or points of interest are concerned. Took I-44 northeast to Chicasha, then SR 39 to Purcell, then I-35 south to Davis, the Chickasaw Turnpike to Ada, US 75 to Coalgate, US 69 to Kiowa (where the sun finally came out), SR 63 to Hartshorne, and US 270 to Wilburton.
Near Wilburton is the Robbers Cave State Park, my destination for the day. $14 got me a semi-improved site with water, electricity, picnic table and grill. Not very level - concrete pads are available only for those willing to pay an additional $4 for a sewer connection. Since I am the sole camper in the park, it's rather quiet and the setting is quite attractive. However, when all the sites are occupied, you would notice that little thought has been given to providing separation and privacy.
Grilled and sat outside for quite a while, very peaceful. Only receive ABC on TV, but didn't feel like watching the Ten Commandments for the zillionth time.
Was on the road for 7 hours and drove 325 miles. Bought gasoline at $1.459/gal and got 17.9 mpg out of the last tank. Temperatures ranged from 61F during last night to 65F at departure to the low nineties during the day, to the mid-eighties at dusk, to 77F after sunset. Used the 110V air conditioner to cool the cabin and to lower the humidity.
Day 30: Monday, April 9
A very restful night, really slept well. Nighttime temperature only dropped to 62F and the furnace didn't kick in all night. Woke up at 7:15 AM, took a shower in the OK bathroom -- very little water pressure -- and was on the road by 9:15 AM.
Took the reasonably scenic SR 2 to Talihina, and then SR 1, which becomes the Talimena Scenic Byway -- from Talihena, OK to Mena AR. This 54 miles stretch is probably one of the most scenic roads I have traveled. Built in the late sixties for the sole purpose of building a scenic drive, this two lane highway ripples over the ridges of the Quachita Mountains along the border between Oklahoma and Arkansas. The vistas are spectacular -- quite comparable to the views from the Blue Ridge Parkway and probably even more so. Unfortunately, morning haze made for unsatisfactory photography -- you'll just have to experience it yourself.
From Mena headed north and east on a collection of state roads, most swinging back and forth between "scenic" and "trashy". Drove through such memorable towns such as Pencil Bluff, Story, Onyx, Rover, Plainview, Casa, Adona, Perry, Merilton, Vilonia, Beebe, and Bald Knob in order to get to Newport, Jacksonport and the Jacksonport State Park.
Secured a site in the lovely campground -- wate/electric sites with concrete pads, picnic tables, and grills nicely arranged along the banks of the White River. Arkansas recognizes the Golden Age card, so my cost was only $7.14.
Sat outside despite the occasional mosquito attack and grilled the last cheeseburger of the trip. Noticed a slight oil drip from the right rear axle -- looks to me that I'm having rear axle seal problems again. I had the seals on both sides replaced about 10,000 miles ago. Then the left side seal failed again and I didn't notice it right away -- cost me $500 to replace the axle shaft, bearing and seal. Now it looks as if the right side seal is failing -- I hope I caught it early enough so that I haven't burnt out the bearing and damaged the shaft. Also hope that there is a Ford dealer nearby.
Drover 345 miles today, was on the road for eight hours. Bought gasoline in Newport, paid $1.349/gal, and averaged 16.7 mpg.
Day 31: Tuesday, April 10
Woke up several times during the night, worried about the rear axle leak. Finally quit trying to sleep and got up at 6:30 AM. Enjoyed a lengthy shower in the excellent bathhouse and headed out for the Ford dealer in nearby Newport.
The outlook is not promising: (1) They are booked solid and won't be able to work on the van until the afternoon. (2) There is no other Ford dealer within a "safe" driving distance. (3) The Econoline 150 van has either a part A or a part B seal - they only have the part A in stock and won't know whether mine takes an A or a B until they get to work on the van. In other words, I'll be stuck here for at least a day, if not more.
Well, three hours later there are good news and there are bad news. They did start work on the van early, and the left axle looks OK -- that's the good news. The bad news is (1) The right axle shaft is damaged, needs to be replaced. Of course, they don't have the necessary axle shaft, so it will come in tomorrow morning via Federal Express. (2) There are metal shavings in the lubricant, raising the likelihood that other bearings have been damaged and maybe going bad. The most prudent course of action would be to completely disassemble and rebuild the whole rear axle assembly. Since this would take several days (assuming parts are available) they suggest I wait with that until I get home. In the meantime they rolled the van out into the back lot and I am camping there for the night. If all goes according to plan, I should be resuming my trip midday tomorrow.
Day 32: Wednesday, April 11, part 1
Spent a reasonably restful night in the back lot of Taylor Ford in Newport, AR. Then waited for FedEx to deliver parts. Then waited for the shop to clear a rack so that they could pull in the van. Then waited for the work to be done. Waiting was made easier by access to a phone line.
I was really amazed at how hard the people tried to get me on the road again. Many thanks again to Willard -- the "rear end expert," Sam the Service Manager, and Barry the Parts Manager.
This is Willard, hard at work
left to right, Barry, Willard, and Sam
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