6. ARIZONA AND NEW MEXICO

Day 23: Monday, April 2

A perfect motor-touring day -- good roads, scenic vistas, and sunshine all day.

Got up at 7:00 AM and the temp was 50F, which reached 55F by the time I hit the road at 9:15 AM. Headed east on I-8 and enjoyed the versy scenic drive to Ocotillo. The altimeter dropped from 3,000' down to zero as I reached the Imperial Valley. Left I-8 to take SR 111 to Brawley, and then SR 78 to climb back up to 1,000' altitude and fabulous views of the desert and the Algodones Dunes. Formed of sand from an ancient lake, wind-sculpted crests and ripples extend more than 40 miles; some sand crests reach heights of more than 300 feet. Next to SR 78 in the middle of the sand dunes is Osborne Scenic Overlook, a high point that provides panoramas of the dunes. Continued on SR 78 with beautiful mountain ranges on my left.

Then dropped into Palo Verde valley and hopped onto I-10 near Blyth. Crossed into Arizona, passed by Quartzsite, and jumped off on US 60, a mostly scenic road to the old gold mining town of Wickenburg. Switched to the very scenic SR 74 to connect with I-17, an outstandly scenic road.

Near Bumblee it climbs from about 3,500' to a plateau at 5,000'. Then over a short distance of only five miles, it drops back down to 3,500' into the Rio Verde valley.

Followed the signs to the Dead Horse Ranch State Park near Cottonwood, where $10 got me a paved site with picnic table, but no hook-ups. Since by the time I arrived the temperature had already dropped into the mid-seventies, I didn't see the need for an electric site just to run the air conditioner. Indeed, after sunset it cooled off quite rapidly.

Drove 390 miles, was on the road for 7 hours. Filled up the gas tank in Wickenburg for $ 1.469/gal. Averaged 15.6 mpg on the last two tanks.

Called home - Sprint PCS worked well for voice calls, but again refused to connect me to my ISP. Frankly, if I hadn't spent a fortune on the digital phone and the cable that connects it to the laptop, I would have long ago switched to another carrier.

Enjoyed a quiet evening and the view from my van at dusk.

Day 24: Tuesday, April 3

Traveled on some really beautiful roads today.

Was awakened at 5:00 AM by my neighbor starting up his diesel truck. Crawled out of the sleeping bag, turned up the heat (it was 50F outside, 55F in the van) and dozed for another hour before giving upon efforts to get more sleep. Enjoyed a good shower with plenty of hot water, had breakfast while watching the morning news on TV, and was on the road by 8:00 AM, headed for Sedona.

The drive into Sedona, coming from the southwest, is spectacular -- much more impressive than the way I came in the last time, from Flagstaff. The town is nestled against the breathtakingly beautiful Red Rocks -- you have got to see it to believe how beautiful it is. Couldn't find a spot to park and get out for photo-taking, but take my word for it: if you visit Arizona, include Sedona and drive into town on SR 89A North.

Continued on 89A North through the lovely Oak Creek Canyon. At the northern end, the road climbs from about 3,500' to 7,000' in a series of switchbacks that provide good views along the way.

On the outskirts of Flagstaff picked up Lake Mary Road, which is a beautiful, peaceful, and barely traveled way through the Coconino National Forest and its wind-swept highlands at 7,500'. Mary Lake and Mormon Lake surprised me with their very low water level -- it must have been a dry winter.

Connected with SR 87 and enjoyed the scenic descend from Strawberry to Pine to Payson. There is a Wal-Mart Supercenter at Payson, a chance to buy supplies and stuff.

About 10 miles south of Payson picked up SR 188, which took me into the very beautiful Tonto Basin

and Lake Roosevelt, a favorite spot for dry camping.

Stayed on SR 188 to Globe, in part an incredibly scenic road as it crossed the Tonto National Forest and then climbs out of the basin.

SR 77, also a road worth taking, brought me to Oracle Junction and into the Santa Catalina Natural Area near Tucson, where I secured a campsite at the Catalina State Park. $10, no hook-ups, picnic table, good bathhouse.

Drove into the outskirts of Tucson to spend some time at Kinkos and to treat the Westy to a Jiffy Lube and a carwash.

Was on the road for 7 3/4 hours and drove 345 miles. Daytime temperatures varied, depending on altitude and cloud cover, between 55F and 90F. It dropped into the low seventies after sunset.

Am spending the evening working on my journal, watching TV, and dining on snacks, shrimps, and strawberries. Life is good.

Day 25: Wednesday, April 4

Woke up at 6:00 AM, but since it was still grey outside (and rather cool at 51F) crawled back into the sleeping back and caught another hour of sleep. Was on the road by 9:00 AM - 61F and partly sunny.

Bypassed downtown Tucson by picking up I-10 west of the city. As I made a sharp left turn on to the entrance ramp, there was a loud crash in the cabin. I had forgotten to latch the refrigerator door . . .

Took the partly scenic I-10 for about an hour and a half, then took US 191 north through the Coronado National Forest to Thatcher, with occasional good views of the Pinaleno Mountains. Continued on US 191 through the Gila Valley (3,500') and then SR 78 into the Black Hills, where the altimeter indicated 4,800'.

Driving through the Gila National Forest (not really a forest, more like a desert wilderness) the road dropped down to about 3,500' again. Then a beautiful climb in the Apache National Forest to the crest at 6,500'.

Crossed into New Mexico, enjoyed good views of the Mule Mountains on my right, and picked up US 180 eastbound. Beautiful vistas of the Mogollon Rim and wildflowers on my left.

Crossed the Continental Divide (at 6,230') shortly before reaching Silver City, visited the Wal-Mart Supercenter in Silver City, and then continued on US 180 to the SR 61 turnoff and the City of Rocks State Park.

When I stayed here last year I made the mistake of signing up for an electric site. This time I took a "no hook-ups" site amongst the rocks, $10, picnic table and grille included.

Spend the evening enjoying the views and the comfortable temperature of 75F, dining on snacks, shrimps, and strawberries, working on the journal, and watching TV.

Drove 300 miles, was on the road for 6 1/4 hours. Bought gasoline near Benson, AZ for $ 1.479/gal. Averaged 17.2 mpg on the last tank -- I think this is adequate proof that the California additives reduce fuel efficiency.

Day 26: Thursday, April 5

A mixed day - initially much scenic beauty, then hours of driving through some rather monotonous high deserts.

Although I had gone to bed quite early last night (9:30 PM) didn't wake up until 6:30 AM this morning. Perhaps the elevation, 5,200', had something to do with that. Since it was still grey outside, went back to sleep for another hour. Enjoyed a long hot shower in the super-clean bathhouse, spent some time in the visitors' center to send and receive e-mail, and was on the road by 10:15 AM.

Can't praise the City of Rocks State Park enough. The staff is extraordinarily friendly and helpful, modem connection is available, the bathhouse couldn't be cleaner, and the setting of the no hook-up camping area is spectacular. The park is located about half way between Deming and Silver City and really is worth a visit. Altitude is 5,200'.

Headed north on SR 61 through the Lower Mimbres River Valley and along the Mimbres River to Sherman and San Lorenzo. Then took the very scenic SR 152 to climb up to the Emory Pass, elevation 8,200'. Occasionally there are turnouts available to let others pass.

An observation: While driving in the mountains in California I frequently pulled off the road to let others pass - even when there were only one or two cars behind me. Not ONCE did a driver wave a "thank you." In New Mexico, EVERY driver I accommodated waved or honked. Guess in which state I will make more of an effort to let others pass me by.

SR 152 then drops down to about 4,500' for a moderately scenic drive through the Sea Valley. Along the way are the towns of Kingston and Hillsboro. The former is an abandoned mining town, the latter a tourist place with antique shops and apple orchards. The shops made me think of the famous sign "We buy junk, we sell antiques."

Picked up I-25 north at Caballo and enjoyed a fast and resonably scenic drive past Truth or Consequences (the name of a TV game show in the early sixties, and the town picked up the name in order to get on the map) and Elephant Butte (where I had camped at the state park during my 1999-1 journey - good setting, but only cold showers in the bathhouse) and on to the US 380 turnoff.

US 380 is getting a much needed resurfacing job. Construction delays broke the monotony of a rather boring drive through the desert. The vista of the lava bed in the Valley of Fire was a bit scenic, but pales in comparison to the spectacular lava field I drove though in Oregon.

Picked up US 54 for an extremely boring drive through the desert to Vaughn and Santa Rosa. One cruises along at between 5,000' and 6,000' through flat desert country and welcomes the change of scenery brought about by passing the occasional freight train.

At Santa Rosa (where Antje and I had stayed at the attractive Santa Rosa State Park last year) jumped on to I-40 east and headed for Tucumcari. A quick drive, especially since everybody exceeds the 75 mph speed limit by at least 5 mph.

Continued on US 54 to Logan and the Ute Lake State Park -- my destination for the day. The park is almost deserted, it looks like there are about 10 campers spread out over 145 sites. The setting is quite lovely -- perhaps less so if all the sites were taken. The bathhouse seems to be brand new, very clean, excellent showers (except, of course, for the water saver button). Paid the Iron Ranger $10 for a site with picnic table and settled in for the night.

Was on the road for 8 hours, and drove 460 miles. Temperatures ranged from 56F at daybreak to the high eighties during the day, to 76F at sunset, and 65F after dark. Bought gasoline in Santa Rosa for $1.399 and averaged 19 mpg - aided by strong tailwinds all day plus the absence of California additives.

Had a Campbell Chunky Meal (chicken-noodles) for dinner and will go to bed early -- no TV reception.

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