7. Washington

Day 16 - Friday, August 4, 2000

Yesterday evening was quite warm, so had a chance to try out the new air conditioner. It does not provide the ice cold blast that I'm used to from the old window air conditioners - but it does reduce the temperature in the van over time. Noise level is very low, and TV reception is not affected.

We got off to a reasonably early start - 9:15 AM and headed for the US/Canadian border at Sumas. Cleared US customs without any problems - simply handed the inspector our US passports and the vaccination certificates for the dogs and denied that we were carrying more than the allowed quantity of adult beverages. The whole procedure took less than five minutes.

Then took SR 547 and SR 542 to Mount Baker.

The last few miles of the Mount Baker Scenic Byway to Artist Point was still closed, so Antje did not get to do that much acclaimed hike on the Artist Ridge Trail. But we did stop on the way down (a 3,000' drop over 10 miles of switchbacks) to admire the 175' Nooksack Waterfall.

Headed back on SR 542 and then took the rather scenic SR 9 to Sedro-Woolley. Then followed SR 20 to Rockport and into the North Cascades National Park - a very beautiful drive. Sure enough, it got cloudy and rainy as we climbed up to Rainy Pass (4,860') but cleared up a bit for the spectacular vistas on the way to Washington Pass (5,477'). Then left the park and called it a day when we reached Winthrop and the Pearrygin Lake State Park.

The sign at the entrance said "Campground Full" but a small $12.00 site without hook-ups was available, even on a busy Friday night.

A long day of driving - 310 miles and 9 3/4 hours on the road. Bought gasoline for $ 1.599/gal and averaged 16.6 mpg on the last tank.

Day 17 - Saturday, August 5, 2000

By the time we got underway at 9:00 AM the sun had come out and the temperature had climbed to 68F from the night's low of 55F. Drove through Winthrop - a slighly hokey tourist attraction - and made our way on SR 20, SR 153, and US 97 to Chelan.

Lake Chelan is a fjord-like glacial lake, very pretty and very popular. Bought some delicious cherries, peaches, and apricots at a roadside stand and continued on US 97A to Wenatchee and Cashmere - a mostly scenic drive. US 97 joins up with US 2 to run alongside the Wenatchee River. Scenery becomes outstanding west of Leavenworth (an imitation Bavarian town where we picked up some excellent German cake) as the road travels through the Tumwater Canyon and then climbs up to Stevens Pass (4,061')

US 2 brought us to Seattle and we decided to give the city a wide berth - finding various ways to avoid downtown traffic. Went on to Olympia and found a site at the American Heritage Campground. $24.30 for a mid-sized site with water and electric hook-ups. Modern bathhouse, clean, plenty of hot water.

Drove 333 miles, was on the road for 7 1/2 hours. Bought gasoline at $ 1.679/gal and averaged 14.8 mpg.

Day 18 - Sunday, August 6, 2000

Woke up to a cloudy sky and the sun did not come out while we followed US 101 along the Hood Canal - a misnomer since it actually is a natural waterway - and the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Drove through Sequim, a favorite retirement community (it only receives about 17" of rain annually because of the rainshadow of the Olympic Mountains.) Entered the Olympic National Park at Port Angeles and drove up to the spectacularly scenic Hurricane Ridge.

Backtracked to Port Angeles and continued on US 101 along beautiful Lake Crescent to the park entrance at the road to Sol Duc Hot Springs. This 12 miles scenic park road runs alongside the Sol Duc River to the resort and campground. Secured a $6.00 (after Golden Access discount) site - fairly level, beautiful setting, no hook-ups) and then tried out the hot springs. Facilities aren't as nice as the ones at Banff, $7.50.

Was on the road for 7 3/4 hours and drove 220 miles.

Day 19 - Monday, August 7, 2000

Since the campground did not have hook-ups, had to stop at the bathhouse on the way out to refill the water tank. Then drove off at 9 AM, cloudy skies and 54F. Backtracked on the park road and enjoyed the scenery. A park ranger car came from the opposite direction and I saw in the rear view mirror that he hit the brakes and made a U-turn. Quick check of the speedometer, I was way under the limit. But he followed me and turned on his police lights as I approached a turnout. Stopped, and wondered what law I might have broken. The ranger came over to the van and politely asked "are you missing a dog?"

A quick check showed Souco in his custormary place, between the captain chairs. But the call "Tia" was not answered by her head popping up from behind the rear seat bench (where she usually spreads herself out.) Sure enough, Tia was AWOL. She must have jumped out while I had the rear door open to get the water hose and gone exploring. Fellow campers saw her at the campground and notified the rangers that a grey van with NJ plates had taken off and left her behind. She was picked up and taken to the ranger station, where we reclaimed her posthaste. By then, of course, the ranger lady was playing with Tia and the poodle was enjoying herself immensely.

We continued on US 101 via Beaver and Forks and decided against the detour into the Hoh Rain Forest. This area gets over 140" of rain annually - not my cup of tea. Instead drove to Ruby Beach - a spectacular view despite the grey sky.

Stopped at several of the beaches on the road to Queets for great views of rocky coves and bluffs.

The road then turned inland back into the forest - or what's left of it after clearcutting. Passed through Hoquiam and Aberdeen, but could not find the Lady Washington - the replica of the tall ship that Captain Robert Gray sailed into this area in 1788 - the first American vessel to land in the Pacific Northwest.

From Aberdeen we took SR 105 to Westport and Grayland - the detour wasn't worth it. Rejoined US 101 at Raymond for the drive to Long Beach.

A few miles north of Long Beach we found Andersen's R.V. Park ($21.96 for full hook-ups and dog bisquits on arrival and departure), a well-maintained open area right off the beach. They are extraordinarily pet friendly, even offering a dog shower - since dogs just love to roll on the dead fish found on the beach. While I connected water, electricity, cable TV and sewer, Antje rode off on her bike for an hour of picking blueberries. Then, long walks for the poodles on the beach, without being leashed.

Bought gasoline at $1.679 per gallon and averaged 15.9 miles per gallon on the last tank. Was on the road for 7 hours and drove 275 miles.

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