5. Florida: The Everglades and The Gulf Coast

Day 11 - Friday, May 12

Spent the day exploring the Everglades. The national park essentially consists of the southern tip of the US mainland, and there are two access points - the park road to Flamingo, and the Shark Valley access road off US 41 (The Tamiami Trail).

Left Key Biscayne at 10 AM and - using freeways, expressways, and the Florida Turnpike - made my way quickly to Florida City and the road to the park. Took the park road to Flamingo (38 miles from the entrance station), turned around and went back to the park entrance, then took Krome Avenue north to US 41 (better known as the Tamiami Trail) and drove to the Shark Valley park overlook. Then continued on US 41 to the Collier-Seminole State Park and called it a day.

My first stop was the visitors center at the entrance to the park road to Flamingo. Took in a 15 min orientation movie, which was very worthwhile. One important message: make a stop at every turnout/overlook in order to see more than the somewhat montonous scenery along the road.

At the Pa-hay-okee Overlook one gets a good first impression of what the Everglades are all about. It's a huge saw-grass prairie and mangrove swamp (1.5 million acres), a wide and shallow river, a wildlife refuge of unimaginable size and diversity.

Another neat stop is Paurotis Pond with a spectacular view of a huge bird nesting area. Fortunately, I had my binoculars along, so was able to watch the activities. Also concluded that I need a new digital camera with a telephotic lense.

All those white spots are nesting birds, and the life and activities around the nests are indescribable.

Flamingo is the end of the road, and there is a NPS campground which looks quite attractive. But it was too early to call it a day, so turned around and headed back. Stopped at the Mrazek Pond for a photo.

Left the park and headed north on Krone Avenue (SR 997). Had planned to stay at the Chekika NPS Campground, but - like several NPS campgrounds in the area - it was closed. Probably because of fire danger. Continued on SR 997 to the Tamiami Trail and headed west. Got to the Shark Valley entrance, but the tram tour to the observation tower had already closed down for the day. Instead, used my bike to pedal 2 miles into the wilderness. Eventually the myriads of bugs hitting my face made me turn around and go back.

A few miles down the road I found an airboat operator who was still open at 4:30 PM. Took a 45 min airboat tour - a first for me. The initial minutes are somewhat disconcerting - the boat heads straight for what looks like solid ground, but then glides over the seagrass and mud banks. This definitely takes some getting used to.

Got to see an alligator close up.

And yet another reason why I need a zoom lens camera.

Continued on US 41 through the Everglades to the Collier-Seminole State Park, where $8.85 got me a level site ( hook-ups available at higher prices). The bathhouse looks slightly crummy, but the showers work very well. Spent an hour adjusting the bicycle rack - it keeps coming loose on bumpy roads - and had intimate contacts with more different species of biting bugs than I knew existed. Obviously, am not going to grill tonight.

Drove 250 miles today, was on the road for 8 1/2 hours. Bought gasoline at $1.499 per gallon and averaged 17 mpg on the last tank. The low temperature was 78F during the night, 85F when I got on the road, 104F during the early afternoon, and 89F when I set up.

Day 12 - Saturday, May 13

The night was unexpectedly pleasant. I had waged chemical warfare against the biting bugs, and won. Not a single bite all night long. Plus, the temperature dropped all the way to 67F - positively a cold wave after the last few nights. All that made for good sleeping and I didn't wake up until 7:30 AM. Grabbed another shower, fixed breakfast, and was on the road by 9 AM. The temperature was a pleasant 70F - it climbed to 95F during the day and dropped back into the mid-seventies after sunset.

Took SR 92 to Marco Island, a very pretty community, and then SR 951 to reconnect with US 41, the Tamiami Trail. Passed by Naples, a town I had liked on previous visits. This time the downtown area was closed off for some festival, so continued to Bonita and then switched to SR 865 to Ft. Myers Beach. A pleasant road, not at all as tacky as the typical beach roads on Florida's east coast.

Went through Ft. Myers and found my way to the artsy-crafty village of Matlacha - definitely worth a visit. Turned around and took Burnt Store Road to Punta Gorda and US 41. Drove through a few rain showers, just enough to clean off the windshield. Stayed on US 41 to Sarasota - a very pretty city - all the way to the turn-off for the spectacularly beautiful bridge across the bay. Stopped in Nokomis at the RV dealer who sells the GTRV Westy, my van. Looked at the 2000 model - some nice improvements over what I have. But not enough to make me consider an upgrade. However, I do like the way they have fitted a 110 VAC air conditioner into the rear door - perhaps I can convince the factory to retrofit my vehicle when I visit them this summer. It sure gets hot in Florida this time of the year! Then a short hop to St. Petersburg Beach and the Fort De Soto Park, my planned destination for the day.

This being a Saturday and the day before Mother's Day and sunny and warm - I should have anticipated that the park would be full. I hadn't, and it was. I asked the ranger lady for alternative state parks, and she handed me a list of places that all seemed pretty far away.

I guess I must have looked pretty dejected or desperate - anyway, she took pity on me and told me that they have one site, 17A, which is blocked off for use in desperate situations, and that she would let me have it. A beautiful site, with water, electricity, level ground, bushes and trees, picnic table and grill. $23.21 (the standard rate for all sites in the park) and I was in.

I like this park and recommend it. They do not take reservations over the phone, but they usually are pretty empty during the week. And, of course, the lady ranger has won a special place in my heart.

Used the bathhouse for a great shower, and then - while the laundry machines cleaned 12 days' worth of my dirty laundry - went biking, including a stop at the office to thank the ranger lady once more for her kindness.

There was a pleasant evening breeze and a blessed absence of bugs, so grilled outdoors. A good conclusion to a good day.

Was on the road for 205 miles and 6 1/2 hours.

Day 13 - Sunday, May 14

I should have listened to Map 'n Go. DeLorme recommended a scenic road via Ocala, but I thought I knew better and instead drove northwest along the coast. What a waste! Except for a few miles near Clearwater, it was all typical beach road without views of the beach. At Clearwater, connected with US 19 - yet another total waste. Six lanes of highway bordered by commercial enterprises - car lots mostly. Finally lost patience after Port Richie and took FL 52 inland to connect with US 41. A road less traveled, but no scenic byway prize winner. Turned west again at Dunnellon (a pretty little town) to take CR 336 through the fairly scenic Goethe State Forest to the juncture with US 19. At Chiefland took SR 320 to the Manatee Springs State Park.

This is a very pleasant park that includes Manatee Springs, a neat swimming and scuba diving area. The spring produces 81,280 gallons of crystal clear water per minute. How do they measure that? Water (at a constant 72F) flows from the spring into the nearby Suwannee river and ultimately ends up in the Gulf of Mexico, just 23 miles downstream.

It being Sunday, the campground is fairly deserted, and I had no trouble securing a good-sized site for $13.91, including water, fire ring, and picnic table.

This is the first Florida state park where my inquiry "are you modem-friendly" was not answered with a puzzled stare. "Of course," said the friendly ranger, "hook up to this outlet here any time." So I got my e-mail and spent some time this evening writing replies, to be posted tomorrow morning on my way out.

Got the bike off the rack. I must have finally figured out how to configure and place the rack, because it was trouble free all day, even on very bumpy roads. Tried to go cycling, but didn't get very far - the paths are mainy sand, and my tires are made for paved roads. Will have to get cross-country tires when I get home.

Used the bathhouse for an evening shower. The place looks slightly run down but is very clean. The water pressure is incredibly high - I don't recall another campground where there was such a beautifully strong flow of hot water.

Decided to grill my supper outdoors, despite some annoying bugs that didn't seem to mind the citronella candle. Just as I started to feel a bit lonely eating all by myself, a lovely dinner partner joined me.

Was on he road for 5 hours and drove 180 miles. Temperatures ranged from 78F during the night to 85F at departure to 98F in the early afternoon to 80F in the late evening.

Day 14 - Monday, May 15

Was awakened at 4 AM by the roar of a diesel engine. My neighbor must have decided that getting off to an early start was more important than observing quiet hours. What a nerve!

It took me a while to get back to sleep - but once sleep came, it was deep and restful, because the outside temerature had dropped to a very refreshing 65F (70F inside the van.) Woke up again at 7:30 AM and made my way to the bathhouse to enjoy another great shower. Rolled out at 9:30 AM (beautiful sunshine, 70F.) Stopped at the ranger station to send and receive e-mail.

Then a fairly boring drive on US 19 to Perry, and a more pleasant trip on US 98 through the Aucilla Wildlife Management area to St. Marks. Found SR 267, a very pretty byway, to take me through the Apalachicola National Forest. Then SR 20 to Blountstown, SR 69, SR 286, and US 90 to Sneads, and finally SR 271 to the Three Rivers State Recreation Area.

This is a pleasant little park with about 40 sites, 30 of which are empty. Mine is shaded by huge oak trees, is quite level, has a fire ring and picnic table, and costs $10.91 including water and electricity. It overlooks the lake. No bicycle paths and the trails are too sandy for biking.

Was on the road for 5 1/4 hours, traveled 240 miles. Bought gas for $1.549/gal and averaged 16.4 miles per gallon on the last tank.

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