4. Florida: The Keys

Day 9 - Wednesday, May 10

Woke up around 7 AM and the thermometer already showed 75F, up from the night's low of 72F. Went for a swim in the pool, enjoyed a leisurely shower and a rich breakfast, took care of e-mail and some phone calls I needed to make, and then went to the local supermarket to restock the pantry.

Was very tempted to stay one more day, but did hit the road by 11:30 AM. The drive on US 1 to Homestead is a pain - much traffic and ugliness. It seems to me that Miami drivers have either one or both of the following characteristics: (1) a complete disrespect for traffic laws and (2) a pushiness/agressiveness that requires them to get to the head of the line - regardless.

There is a rather pretty stretch of road between Florida City and Key Largo, going through the outskirts of the Everglades. US 1 through Key Largo, Tavernier, and Islamorada offers little scenic beauty. Tacky souvenir shops, uninviting looking restaurants, cheap motels, dive shops, and bait and tackle vendors line the road.

Matters improve further south, and the last 20 or so miles before Bahia Honda make up for what came before. Pulled into the Bahia Honda State Park at 3 PM and was able to secure a reasonably private and slightly shaded site. $23.69 for water hook-up. Unfortunately, the sites directly on the beach were sold out.

It was hot - the thermometer registered 95F - and I was soaking wet after setting up and getting my bike off the rack. Created a cooling breeze for myself by going for a bike ride through this very lovely park. Was amazed how much my leg muscles hurt after five months without biking. Resolved to go for a bike ride at least once a day while on this trip.

Took an evening shower in the very clean and functional bathhouse, but the high temperature and related perspiration quickly eliminated that feeling of cleanliness one has when stepping out of a good shower.

Was on the road for 3 1/2 hours and covered all of 130 miles.

Day 10 - Thursday, May 11

Woke up at 7 AM and it was already unbearably hot. Perhaps my next Westy will have 110 VAC air conditioning. The shower didn't help cool me off at all. Decided against preparing breakfast - got on the road as quickly as possible and dropped into the first air conditioned breakfast place I could find.

Continued on to Key West, a very lovely place that once was one of the richest cities in the US. The source of its wealth? Salvaging shipwrecks. For the best trip through town, take A1A as you come in, do not follow the signs to the historic district yet. Bear left on A1A and enjoy a spectacular drive along the sea wall. Ultimately you will end up at the southernmost part of the US.

then continue on Duval Street to see the rest of the historic district. If you drive a large vehicle it's a good idea to park it and rent a moto scooter.

Reversed course and took US 1 northbound. This time I was on the Atlantic side of the road and enjoyed many more scenic vistas than I did on the southbound side yesterday.

At Florida City, took a right turn to visit Biscayne National Park. There isn't much to see from the van, because only 4,370 of the park's 180,000 acres are land; the rest are water, and there is much more to see below the surface as there is above it. The view of the bay from the visitors center is quite lovely.

According to DeLorme's information, "Biscayne National Park has four biological systems: the mainland mangrove forests, Biscayne Bay, the upper Florida Keys and the underwater reefs. Shallow Biscayne Bay, which is between the coast and the northernmost Florida Keys, has clear water and is home to sponges, crabs, dolphins and manatees, endangered mammals that favor the bay's warm waters. The undeveloped upper Florida Keys are the result of many thousands of years of construction by the tiny animals collectively known as coral. The 20 miles of the park's reefs were formed by more than 100 species of coral and harbor more than 200 different kinds of fish, including brilliantly colored parrotfish, angelfish and wrasses. Moray eels also inhabit many of the underwater crevices...The upper keys support other endangered species. Bald eagles, herons, pelicans, egrets and other large birds find refuge in the dense vegetation...The islands feature many tropical plants that originated from seeds either blown here by West Indian winds or deposited by birds. On the mainland are forests of mangroves, easily recognized by their twisted roots, which trap and filter out sediment that would otherwise harm the water and its inhabitants. The mangrove roots provide excellent hiding places and food sources for young fish--another function vital to the region's food chain."

Headed back to Key Biscayne. Got a haircut at Pedro's, who has been cutting my hair for 23 years. He has raised prices again, and I complained to no avail that the less hair I have, the more he charges. Maybe it's because it gets more diffucult to find hair to cut...

The townhouse complex has beach access, so went to cool off in the warm waters of the Atlantic. Spent over an hour just sitting in the water and walking around.

Was on the road for 8 1/4 hours, drove 225 miles. The night's low temperature was 76F, 80F at departure, high nineties on the road, and it's still 82F at 9 PM.

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