2. WESTBOUND THROUGH TEXAS and NEW MEXICO

Overnights in

Texas	New Mexico

Day 5: Wednesday, March 15

Woke up at 6 AM from a fairly good night's sleep. It was cold (53F) and rainy outside the van. Felt tempted to try for another hour of sleep, but was determined to beat the crowd to the small bathhouse. Managed a good shower despite the broken showerhead.

Was on the road by 8:15 AM - US-84 westbound to Waco, McGregor, Gatesville, Evant, and Goldwaithe. Nothing particularly scenic about the road. Then on TX-16 to San Saba and US-190 to Brady. The scenery changed from pine forests to ranch land, with many pecan trees and farms in the Saba valley. Picked up US-87 northbound to take me through rolling hills and dry-looking fields to Eden (no similarity to Paradise) and on to San Angelo.

San Angelo is one huge construction site - never did manage to find the downtown area. But did find the San Angelo State Park, my destination for the day. The park office personnel was extraordinarily friendly, but that didn't change the lamentable fact that the bathhouse was about two miles away from the campground. Otherwise my site is quite nice - level, water and electricity, fire ring and shaded picnic table. $13, after discount.

The evening temperature is a balmy 80F, clear skies, and the stars are beginning to come out. I think I'll grill tonight, despite a plethora of flies. TV reception is excellent.

Drove 420 miles today and was on the road for 7 3/4 hours. Bought gas near Palestine, TX for $1.459/gal, most stations advertise $1.499. Averaged 18 miles per gallon, not bad at all - but didn't use the air conditioner.

Didn't have to drive a single mile on an interstate highway today!

Day 6: Thursday, March 16

The weather forecast last night had promised a major drop in temperature and a cloudy day. Sure enough, when I got up at 6 AM it was gray outside and 57F - the day's high. During the day the temperature dropped to 34F, it rained, and there was some snow above 4,000'. It was very windy all day, but the sun did come out in late afternoon.

My route today included about an hour's drive on US-87 to Sterling City, another hour on TX-158 to Midland, 1 1/2 hours of I-20 to Barstow, TX and then US-285 and a county road to Whites City, NM - gateway to the Carlsbad Cavern National Park.

Took the tour of The Big Room and was impressed. An elevator takes the visitor down 750' from the visitor center to the entrance to the cavern. There are incredibly many different formations. Some parts made me think of rock-solid Roman basilicas or fortifications, other areas contain such finely detailed formations of stalagtites and stalagmites that one is reminded of the delicate stonemason work found in Gothic cathedrals. The general public didn't really become aware of the beauty of the cavern until 1915. In 1923 the US Department of the Interior sent inspector Robert Holly to investigate and see whether Carlsbad Cavern was truly an outstanding natural scenic wonder. His final report included this sentence:

". . . I am wholly conscious of the feebleness of my efforts to convey in words the deep conflicting emotions, the feeling of fear and awe, and the desire for an inspired understanding of the Divine Creator's work which presents to the human eye such a complex aggregate of natural wonders . . ."

After the cavern tour, drove on to Carlsbad through snow flurries and rain, then continued on US-285 to the Brantley Lake State Park. The sites are quite nice, many with a lovely view of the lake. Checked out the nearby bathhouse and it looks modern and spotless. $14 for the site, including electricity and water. The campground is at 3,300' ASL.

Late afternoon brought sunshine, clear skies, and 47F temperature.

Drove 360 miles today, was on the road for 7 1/2 hours, and bought gasoline at $1.479/gal. Averaged 16.7 mpg - had strong headwinds today and used the air conditioner quite a bit yesterday.

Day 7: Friday, March 17

Since I had crossed time zones and turned back the clock by an hour, woke very early - 5 AM - and couldn't go back to sleep. Headed for the bathhouse, and it was nice and warm, despite the outdoor temperature of 27F. However, of the three spacious and clean showers, one was out of order, one only dispensed if one held down the water button with great pressure, and the third one provided just a trickle of water. Tried my best, but the shower wasn't worth the effort.

Was on he road by 8 AM, headed north on US-285 to Artesia and Rosswell. Beautiful sunshine, but no scenic vistas. Got the van washed in Rosswell and took US-70 to Hondo. By then the temperature had climbed into the forties, and the altimeter indicated 5,500' ASL. Took US-380 to Capitan (6,350') and was rewarded with good views of the Sierra Blanca. Continued through the historic town of Lincoln to Indian Gap (6,940'), Carrizozo and on US-54 to Tularosa and then on US-70 to Alamogordo. Beyond the town lies the White Sands National Monument - definitely worth a visit. The sand dunes are as white as snow, glistening in the bright sunlight.

Continued on US-70 to Las Cruces through the St. Augustine Pass (5,700') and then had no choice but to take I-10 to Deming. Then north on US-180 to the City of Rocks State Park.

The hook-up sites ($14) aren't particularly attractive. The improved-but-no-electricity/water sites ($10) are much more pleasant, nestled in between the rocks. The bathhouse looks good, but I'll withhold judgment until I have actually tried the shower. The campground is at 5,555' ASL. While the sun was up, it was a pleasant 75F, but rather windy.

Drove 400 miles today, was on the road for 8 3/4 hours. Bought gasoline near Las Cruces for $1.459/gal and averaged 18.2 mpg on the last tank.

PS: Tried the showers early the next morning - heaven! I don't think I've ever enjoyed such clean facilities, rich stream of warm water, infinitely adjustable showerhead. Also noticed the cleanliness of the campsites - not a bottle cap, candy wrapper, or cigarette butt in sight. The rangers must be doing a fantastic job.

And, last but not least - the visitor center is modem friendly! So I'll upload now and get my mail.

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