Friday, March 19 - Day 9
Terlingua, TX to Davis Mountains State Park, Fort Davis, TX
Today I did the scenic-road-traveling equivalent of pigging out. If I would have had to do a week of interstate driving just to have today's trip -- it would have been worth it.
The first scenic view was a little mountain right next to the campground
Started the day's drive at 8:00, temp of 56F, up from the night's low of 45F. At Terlingua the altimeter had indicated 2500 ft above sea level (ASL) but after just a few miles on TX 170, it indicated 3000 ft ASL. TX 170 is also known as The River Road - El Camino Rio. For the rest of the drive the altitude constantly fluctuated between 2500 ft and 3500 ft. Once I had passed Lajitas, it really got to be a scenic roller coaster ride. By the way, guidebooks and road signs discourage RVs and trailers from taking this road, but unless your vehicle is really underpowered, go for it. Road width is adequate, grades up to 15%, but no white-knuckle driving.
The road follows the Rio Grande west
with some spectacular scenery along the way
On the other side of the river are Mexico and some pretty impressive sights. On the US side it's the Big Bend Ranch State Natural Area. I especially liked the Fresno Creek crossing, the Madeira Canyon, and the 5-mile climb up to the Santana Mesa, which is about 3500 ft ASL. Then the road drops down again and quickly takes you to Presidio -- a town that's trying hard to become a tourist attraction -- they even have their own web site.
In Presidio I picked up US 67, also a very attractive road. It's easy to drive and one doesn't really notice the steady climb up to about 5000 ft ASL. There are huge cattle ranches along the road. The road took me to Marfa, which has an impressive-looking courthouse and center square, and also a good place to buy gas, 97.9 cents. Averaged 15.9 mpg on the last tank. All the filling stations I had seen since Terlingua sold regular at over $1.00.
There is a direct scenic road from Marfa to Fort Davis, however I made a detour to Alpine, a pretty little town with some Western-oriented stores and buildings. The drive from Alpine to Fort Davis on TX 118 is also quite scenic. Cattle ranches along the way, some with what might turn into green grass once it rains, others just with desert shrubbery.
Checked into the Davis Mountains State Park campground around noon, just to make sure I would get a site. Got a beautiful one under a huge tree, nice and level. Then took off to drive the Davis Mountains Loop on TX 118, 166, and 17.
First stop was the University of Texas' McDonald Observatory on top of Mount Locke (6,791 ft ASL)
Then a pretty drive through Madera Canyon and spectacular views of Sawtooth Mountain (7,718 ft ASL),
Came across an odd rock pile,
and got a good view of Mt. Livermore (8,582')
The road signs indicated that this loop is a wildlife viewing area, but I saw just one buck who seemed to have a hard time finding an opening in the barbed wire fence.
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Since I had worked hard all day appreciating scenic beauty (267 miles in 7 hours - a new "low" for this King Of The Road - Betty D. please note) decided to treat myself to a steak dinner. Bought the meat, lit the charcoal, and suddenly started feeling very cold. The state park is at 5,000' ASL and once the sun sets, the temperature drops like crazy. From 60+ to 28 in a couple of hours! Ate inside the van, but then went outside for a while to gaze at the brilliant night sky. I hadn't seen stars that close and bright since my son Mark/Siberian Husky Circe and I camped near Kalispell last summer. Hey Mark - I miss you and Circe on this trip!
Saturday, March 20 - Day 10
Fort Davis, TX to Pancho Villa State Park, Columbus, NM
During the night the emperature dropped to 25F and the kicking in of the furnace woke me several times. Finally turned the thermostat way down and instead relied on my L.L.Bean sleeping bag to keep me warm. It's supposed to do that down to 20F, but Bean's definition of warmth and mine do not coincide. Gave up on further attemps to sleep warmly around 5:30 AM, turned up the thermostat, had a leisurely breakfast, and did not even consider taking a morning shower in the unheated bath house. During breakfast saw four does casually walk right past the van. Was on the road by 7:45 AM and the temperature had climbed to 29F. The water hose did not freeze, the grey and fresh water tanks are inside the van, so no risk there.
Took TX 17 out of Ft. Davis - another scenic road.
It leads to a plateau at about 4,000' - rich farmland interspersed with stretches of desert. At Balmorheal picked up I-10 for a 200 miles stretch. Actually, there are some scenic stretches along the way, especially west of Van Horn. Filled the gas tank just before the New Mexico state line, Flying J at 93.9 cents. The last tank gave me an 18.9 mpg average.
Right after the New Mexico Welcome Center, got off the interstate and headed south towards Anthony, La Union, and Sunland Park. This is an area where farming "milks" the Rio Grande and one sees lush fields, fruit orchards, and pecan nut farms. Shortly before Sunland, a county road heads west to Columbus, NM. This 59 miles road is something special: nice and wide, well-paved, deserted, and going smack through the desert. No map or guidebook mentions it, yet it's scenically more attractive than those Louisiana roads.
In Columbus awaits the Pancho Villa State Park (4,000' ASL), a good place to visit. Since I had crossed time zones I got there quite early, around 1 PM local time, and found a site under what down here passes for a tree. $10 for a site without electricity, but with water, picnic table, and grill. Most of the sites have electricity and run $14. But the best part of the park is a spacious and clean hot shower, which I enjoyed at great length. Afternoon temperature was in the mid-seventies, so it was pleasant to walk around and take some photos.
Drove 348 miles today, was on the road for 6 1/2 hours. Not a distance "low," but certainly a new low for time on the road.